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Preventing stretch of top fabric while seaming

user-1096620's picture

Preventing stretch of top fabric while seaming (post #36360)

As a very infrequent sewer I would appreciate advice.  I am in the middle of sewing a medium weight wool crepe dress and noticed that the top fabric is stretched by the presser foot when sewing longer seams. I have changed the balance on my Bernina because the tension adjustment didn't help, but the problem persists. Using tissue would make precision difficult and because of the material I am afraid to use anything fusible/soluble to keep the layers together. Basting has not made much of a difference, so I am "stuck", hoping for inspiration. BTW: I am sewing with the No. 1 all-purpose foot.

user-1096620's picture

Ref. Preventing stretch of top fabric (post #36360, reply #1 of 3)

Bought the latest Threads magazine last night and found some tips on adding bias-cut silk organza strips to both sides before closing the seam. Will try that and suspect this may do the trick. 

Pattiann42's picture

Eliminate Stretching Seams When Sewing (post #36360, reply #2 of 3)

If you use a walking foot (even feed foot) it will work in sync with the feed dogs and help keep the layers from shifting.

 

Should you have two layers of fabric where one is a bit longer than the other, match up each end and pin.

Then add a few pins where necessary just to keep the cut edges of the fabric even. 

Don't worry about keeping the cut edges even along the length of the fabric. 

Then place the longer side next to the feed dogs and they will ease the longer layer to match the top (shorter) layer.  Use the all-purpose in this instance.

If necessary, use an awl (sewing notion) to help keep the cut edges from moving to the side as the fabric feeds (just in front of the presser foot).

PJ

JonZimmer's picture

Great advice. (post #36360, reply #3 of 3)