Replies

1. 
   Josefly | May 09, 2010 07:23pm | #1

   your silk fabric

   The fabric sounds lovely.  I'm wondering if it's dupioni silk; the stiff quality, and the noticeable horizontal threads fit the description of dupioni.  It's a lovely crisp fabric; if you wash it, though, it will soften.  Some prefer it softened, but it depends on the garment you want.  

   I don't know what size you wear, but you have less than 2 yards of fabric (66 inches = about 1.75 yards), and I can't imagine that you could get both a dress and jacket from that amount, even though it is wide at 54 inches.  Dupioni would be lovely made into either a dress, or a jacket, or a skirt.  I would underline it with silk organza, especially if you make a fitted garment out of it - dupioni sometimes shows strain at the seams. If you made a dress from it, perhaps there would be enough left to use as trim for a jacket.

   I suggest you check through some patterns online, to see what you might like to make, and note how much fabric is required for the patterns you're interested in.  

   I've seen dupioni beautifully shirred, gathered, pleated, or tucked.  It's an interesting and rich-looking and -feeling fabric.

   Let us know what you decide to do.  

   Joan

1. 
   olga82 | May 10, 2010 11:39am | #2

   Thanks for your comments, Joan! They're all very helpful.

   Dupioni is the correct diagnosis. It looks just like this, but eggplant colour:

   http://cn1.kaboodle.com/hi/img/2/0/0/3c/c/AAAAAsEbcC8AAAAAADzOFg.jpg

   It's very useful to know it gets softer after washing. I think I will wash it before sewing then, so that the garment is appropriate for its level of stiffness.

   Also your mention of lining and seams is very interesting; I did notice it frays a lot.

   I will post later what I end up doing with it.

   Thank you!!!

   Olga

2. 
   ThreadKoe | May 10, 2010 01:40pm | #3

   I have to agree with Josefly's assessment with your wonderful Dupioni.  I think you will be much happier with an underlined garment no matter what it is.  Dupioni is fairly easy to work with, the exception being the tendancy to fray.  You do not say how tall you are, but you should have enough for a jacket, or skirt.  Or possibly a shift type dress.  Be aware also that this type of fabric is best cut on a with nap layout, as much as possible.  Have fun with your lovely fabric.  Cathy

1. 
   olga82 | May 10, 2010 06:11pm | #4

   Thanks!

   Hi Cathy,

   Thank you!

   Just learned about lining vs. underlining, now I get why it makes seams stronger. And thanks for the reminder about nap, that is important with all these horizontal threads visible.

   It amazes me how much fabric it takes to make things. With raw fabric I can wrap myself in it head to toe (I am 5'6'').

   Thanks again! I just joined yesterday and already got two very useful comments, this is great.

   Olga

1. 
   KharminJ | May 11, 2010 08:49pm | #5

   Ooh, Yummy! Eggplant is one of my favorite colors, and so luscious in silk!

   Yeah, the importance of placing all the pattern pieces going the same direction (with nap), cannot be overstated.

   OTOH, there is no law or even rule, merely a convention, that you have to use the fabric cut-to-cut rather than edge-to-edge. Since your dupioni is essentially horizontal stripes (although subtle), and especially since you have very little material, play around with the layout to see if you like it better (or can fit it more easily) using one selvedge as "top". Keep track of which is the "right side" of the fabric, too.- there may be shading differences.

   Have fun - but make a muslin first! (Unless you've used the pattern before, and know how it works.) Be sure you like the style and fit, and know how any tricky bits get put together.

   Looking forward to seeing your results!

   Welcome and Bright Blessings!  Kharmin

3. 
   decoratrice | May 13, 2010 07:36pm | #6

   One of my oft-repeated mistakes is to try to get the maximum garment out of the available fabric instead of listening to the fabric.  It will tell you what it wants to be, so heed that, even if it means "wasting" some of the yardage.  A caution--dark-colored silks will run when washed, and you may not like the result--test first.  Also, if you are thinking about cutting the garment 90 degrees from the recommended grain direction, check the drape--it will be different and can affect the look and feel of the garment.  Congratulations on learning to sew!  Sewing is power!

4. 
   kswolff | May 14, 2010 06:29pm | #7

   Washing dupioni - caveat

   Just one quick caveat about washing your dupioni - when you do this, not only does the hand change considerably but the shine is reduced by about half.  This means that it will have a sheen to it but not the high shine that you see now.  

   Personally, I love dupioni both ways and have used it for a number of types of garments. In its original state it works beautifully for a structured jacket or dress, tailored trousers, and - my personal favorite to date - a car coat length trench coat (I have actually made 3 variations of this which are in my closet right now).  It will retain more of a formal feel with this crisp hand and high shine.

   Once it's been washed and is much softer and has a less formal appearance, it works like a dream for a summery style dress, full or A-line skirt, a shirt or blouse, even a pair of pleated trousers like some of the Donna Karen designs from the 80's and many of her current designs as well.  Since it will dress up very nicely as well, it may end up being more versatile in the long run. 

   If you do decide to wash your fabric, I suggest finishing the cut edges either with a serger or a zig zag stitch on your regular machine. This way you don't loose several inches from the fraying that will happen in the wash.  Whatever you decide to do with your fabric, when you cut your pieces, I suggest finishing all the edges of each piece before you even start working with them.  The fraying will continue to be an issue even just from handling them as you work if the edges are not finished.

   Have fun with this wonderful fabric, it really is great to work with!