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childers's picture

fitting (post #35416)

On every shirt/blouse I make, I have a horizontal wrinkle that runs from shoulder to shoulder, just under the neck/collar on the back.  I have slightly rounded shoulders/back - computer injury.  I've tried adjusting the shoulder seams and that didn't remove the wrinkles.  Can someone offer me some help?

 

Thanks.

stillsuesew's picture

It sounds like you need a (post #35416, reply #1 of 4)

It sounds like you need a little more room across the back.  I believe the fabric is lifting until there is enough room.  I also have to have more room across the back and I often widen the back maybe half an inch added to each shoulder seam and make a small dart or pleat along the shoulder seam on the back.  (slit the pattern top to bottom half way along the shoulder seam.)    You don't want to add it to the center as this will affect the size of the neckline and mess up any collar application.

m_coates's picture

Fitting (post #35416, reply #2 of 4)

Hello.

I sometimes see this problem with various people when they are wearing a garment with a collar such as a jacket or a shirt. To remove the wrinkle you need to undo the collar seam and allow the fabric from the back to rise into the collar. When the rinkle has gone, you can simply attach the collar back up again and you should have a wrinklr free back.

Good luck and happy sewing.

Michael Coates.

Michael Coates - Professional English Tailor
http://www.TheSewingGuru.com

stillsuesew's picture

Michael's comment will solve (post #35416, reply #3 of 4)

Michael's comment will solve the problem on an already made garment but will not solve your problem on every pattern that you use before you cut it out.  Imagine this - cut your offending blouse or shirt from hem to collar seam at center back and guess what will happen - it will lie flat because  it will separate enough to hang properly.   The separating means you need more fabric across your back. 

childers's picture

fitting... (post #35416, reply #4 of 4)

I tried both suggestions, and all it takes is about an half inch increase in the back and the collar wrinkle goes away.  Thanks.