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How to build up the bust area on a strapless bodice??

smockerlady's picture

Hi there,

Where can I find sound advice on how to build up ( with the use of boning and padding) the bust area on a strapless bodice.

Both myself and my teenage are small busted - 32" and I am tackling her prom dress. A beautiful vogue pattern, but the bust area needs some help.

Years ago, I tried on a used dress - a Bob Mackie original. I remember that it had a bust all of its own..................but it looked amazing when I put it on; perfect fit and it stayed in place...........................what techniques, notions do I use to make a really first class, professional job of this dress for my daughter..............and me too for future evening dresses??

 

 

lou19's picture

Perhaps you mean bra cups (post #35411, reply #1 of 5)

Perhaps you mean bra cups that are sewn into dress?

stillsuesew's picture

Are you asking how to use (post #35411, reply #2 of 5)

Are you asking how to use boning?  Boning is stitched to seam allowances and/or underlining.  There is probably help online as to how to do this and where to put it.  I often stitched bra pads to fit under the breasts and lift them up into the fullest part of the bust/bodice.  And the front seams that go over the bust can be taken in to fit a smaller bust size.  Make sure you lift those "ladies" up into the fullest part of the dress.  I fitted many bridesmaid and prom dresses where the girls felt they didn't need a bra - but you have to have them bend over and lift the fullness of their breasts into the space in the bodice meant for them and then fit the dress well below the bust so they stay there!

KharminJ's picture

Hi, Sue!  When I've acted as (post #35411, reply #4 of 5)

Hi, Sue!  When I've acted as 'assistant dresser' for Renaissance or Elizabethan ladies in my re-enactors group (SCA.org),  I've often heard that ^^^ action called "lift and fluff"... Because nobody's chest naturally results in those 'shelves'! LOL  

Also, the last issue of Threads (#155 - June-July 2011- the one with "Mix and Match Wardrobe" and "Destination: Vancouver" as headlines) has a nice how-to on Waist Stays in the "Vintage Details" article (p. 41). This may be yet another possibility to help keep the dress where she wants it.

You could also find a strapless pushup bra, and stitch it into the dress (as part of the lining).

Good luck and happy stitching to you, and Happy Prom to your daughter!  Kharmin

Teaf5's picture

interior bodice (post #35411, reply #3 of 5)

A fairly recent Threads magazine article (Fall 2010?) addressed exactly this issue and showed how to construct an interior bodice for a fitted, strapless dress.  The interior bodice fits very snugly and has all the shaping and padding/bust cups, and the fashion fabric bodice is fitted over that.

scrubble4's picture

Hi:  You can now buy half gel (post #35411, reply #5 of 5)

Hi:  You can now buy half gel inserts that may be the ticket.  Create a little envelope for the half gel in the bottom half of the bra cup.  This will lift and give fullness and you won't need to worry about the gel popping out if the envelope has a velcro catch to close it off.  Maybe not the direction you would like to go, just a suggestion.  You can buy these inserts both full gell and half gell in lingerie shops and the lingerie department of big stores.  You can move the gel insert to bathing suits etc if you want as well.  Scrubble4