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Bias pants article

LeeV's picture

Bias pants article (post #36358)

In latest issue (166) there is an article on making bias pants.  The math instructions for a 24 inch thigh and 41 inch hip circumference yield a 18.12 inch tube (RW).  This tube would not fit a 24 inch thigh, never mind double that for a 41 inch inch (minus crotch cutout) hip.   Am I doing this incorrectly?

Pattiann42's picture

Bias Pants; final measurements (post #36358, reply #1 of 7)

You should add this to your original post.  Just copy and paste.

TeaBeeTalbot's picture

Bias Pants (post #36358, reply #2 of 7)

I calculate the same rectangle width (RW) as LeeV.  It doesn't make sense to me either.  Also, in reading ahead, I don't understand how to sew the "remaining open seam."  You start at C, and if you don't sew to a corner where do you sew? I'm not sure what points to match together in order to start sewing.  Can anyone explain how this "long, closed, twisted pouch" is made? Thanks.

Franella's picture

Bias Pants instructions are incomplete!!! (post #36358, reply #3 of 7)

The instructions are very poor and also incomplete.   I was crazy for 3 days trying to figure this out too.  Here is the fix!!!

1.  Your rectangle of fabric is folded in half length wise, R-sides together.  Seam the ends together from A to B on both ends of the folded fabric.

2 . Measure the length of that seam and mark that length on each of the long edges of the "Canoe" and call it C.  Then open the fabric with the seam [ A to B ] lying on the previously folded line to make a triangle with the seam. [center line of the triangle is A, the Tip of the triangle is B and the C marks are at the outer edges of the triangle.]    Then make sure the fabric is lying flat on the folded edges as they are now bias.  

3.   Press the bias fold on ONE SIDE of the triangle.   Cut this folded edge along the outside edge [ C ] to the tip of the seamed line [ B ] along this pressed line.   DO NOT PRESS THE OTHER BIAS FOLD.   Open the fabric , you now have a bias triangle at one end of the rectangle.

4.   Repeat # 3 to make the bias to the second end of the fabric being careful to make the cut on the opposite edge of the triangle.

5.   Now, Sew the 2 long edges of the odd shaped rectangle together, remember to put the 2 pieces together  [R-sides together] so the pointed edge is beyond the edge of the second edge but make them cross where the seam  should begin.

6.   When this seam is completed, open up the newly formed bias tube so it will hang straight.   It will be plenty big for your leg and is now bias cut.   Carefully repeat the same process with the second leg fabric so as to have the seams going the opposite on the second leg.

7.   To cut the crotch line, be sure to put the pant legs R-sides togther and one inside the other.   It should be easy from that point...!!!

Good Luck. 


amm's picture

bias pants (post #36358, reply #4 of 7)

It’s deceiving. While the width of the RECTANGLE that you start with is 18.12 inches, the width of the TUBE will be considerably different. You didn’t indicate your pant length, so I can’t calculate it for you. If you want to try this concept to help get your head around what’s happening, take a piece of graph paper and measure out the rectangle size that your measurements suggest. Then follow the directions to make a tube. Use adhesive tape to “stitch” the sides of the tube as you form it. The squares on the graph paper will help you see the bias that results, and you’ll be able to determine the actual circumference of the finished tube. Be sure to mark the points A, B, and C before you begin. It seems complicated at first, but actually, it’s relatively easy, and the results are amazing. If you have trouble folding the graph paper because it’s too stiff, try using a paper towel rectangle. Decide on a formula (1/4 inch of paper towel = 1 inch of measurement—or whatever seems to work well with your paper towel) to keep the dimensions accurate. Paper towels are a more flexible and easier to mold than paper. Be sure to draw a few grain lines on the paper towel before you begin.

April Mohr, Threads Editorial Department

Sadie984's picture

measurement off (post #36358, reply #5 of 7)

I tried this with a hip measurement of 41 and a length of 42.  I calculated this to be an 18 inch wide and 60 inch long piece.  I ended up with a shorts that were way way to big around the waist.  Did I do something wrong with the measurements or did I cut the b to C wrong.  It looked just like the illustration number 5 when I cut it.   Help.    Kathy in cincinnati

user-2435523's picture

Thank you (post #36358, reply #6 of 7)

I followed the magazine directions through your step 3.  I could not figure how they made a tube out of the result.  I set my small cloth sample aside and have been meaning to check and see if any correction had been posted.  Thank you for figuring out the final finishing steps.  I have drapey material waiting to do a pair for me but of course was not going to cut that until my sample try worked.  I think these pants will be very comfortable to wear.  I just wish there was a way to put pockets in-I am addicted to chapstick and always have to have a handkerchief with me.  Those would cause bulges though so I guess they will live in my purse.

BlueDode's picture

Agree -- bias pant measurements "do not compute" (post #36358, reply #7 of 7)

Had the same problem on a test pair of shorts to my measurements:  result would allow about 2" for depth of figure -- a no go.  I plan to put a gusset in the crotch to deal with the depth of figure problem on the shorts for now:  Folkwear "sarouelle" pattern shows a a gusset like this -- probably in other places too.