Replies

1. 
   Jean | Oct 04, 2002 06:09am | #1

   I'm eager to hear others opinions on this, I'm not an expert by any stretch of the imagination. Have you tried the pivot and slide  adjustments a la Nancy Zieman?  If you use all three seams you would have to adjust each by about 1/2 of an inch. I would pin the vest pattern at the underarm and pivot the pattern the required amount and do the same thing with the back starting at the neckline. Try making a muslin first to see if it works before you cut into your fashion fabric though.

2. 
   TERISEW | Oct 04, 2002 01:44pm | #2

   I agree with Jean, however, the most effective way to get satisfactory results from the test muslin is to use a bit of simple math. Count the number of seams you have available in the style you are sewing. For instance is the vest simple, unfitted with two side seams? If so set up a fraction 2/2, the first 2 for the amount you want to expand the garment and the second 2 for the amount of seams you have in the garment. Two divided by two is one, so increase each seam by 1 inch. Blend in the increased amount with your french curve and then cut a muslin. Now if the vest is princess seamed, this gives you more opportunity to fine tune the fit. You will have four seams (if there is no center back seam) or more if the vest is princess fitted in the back too. Do the same fraction. The more seams, the less you have to increase each one. Just remember to note the amount you want to increase, be specific, measure the body and measure the pattern. That number goes on top, divide it by the number of seams you have. Increase each seam in the area you need it this amount. This info came from an Islander Sewing Video I watched in 1996.

1. 
   rjf | Oct 04, 2002 02:40pm | #3

   So if you wanted to add two inches with two seams, that's an inch per seam.  But if you add an inch to the side seams, won't you have 4 extra inches?  Or is there another step in the algorithm?         rjf

1. 
   NansiM | Oct 04, 2002 02:50pm | #4

   I think you are right.  You'd do better to use the number of Seam Allowances, since it takes two pieces of fabric to create each seam.  If you have 2 seams, that would be 4 pieces in the seam allowances, so 4 should be the bottom number in that case.  That would mean you'd add a 1/2" to come up with 2" total.

3. 
   Tikiclub | Oct 15, 2002 05:53pm | #5

   I am guessing that this is after the fact, but if it's a multi sized pattern and you've not already cut it out, sometimes you can just cut between the sizes to make the adjustment you're after. Pivot and slide is the easiest and you don't distort any sewing lines in the process. It's a grunt to trace or add a strip, but it works.