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Underlining question

Bernie1's picture

I'm working on a coat from a Burda pattern using some inexpensive wool and am trying to underline with a cotton batiste as per Sandra Betzina's recommendation. (this coat is an experiment. I'm going to make one for my sister in a beautiful cashmere/wool I bought from candelightvalleyfabrics. com) I'm having a hard time, though, getting the batiste to line up with the fashion fabric even though I was very careful in cutting it out exactly the same way I cut the wool. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also, how do keep the underlining from slipping while you work with it and the fashion fabric as one piece? I tried to baste inside the seamline with long running stitches but it seems to just make everything pucker. What am I doing wrong? I'm a pretty experienced sewer and haven't had this problem with underlining before.  Also, does anyone out there prefer using a rotary cutter to scissors - do you get a better straight cut with a rotary? Thanks.

SewNancy's picture

(post #24547, reply #1 of 5)

I have underlined before and had better results with silk organza.  I also had problems using a cotton batiste years ago and haven't used it since.  But, I use fabric glue stick in sas and roll up to take up extra turn of cloth fabric, then trim excess.  Do this before glue dries.  Then I hand baste down center of darts and to mark details on right side.  Also if large pattern piece like coat I would baste cf or down center of piece.  I assume that you are using underlining so that you can use iron on interfacing.  I have underlined a coat with well washed cotton flannel for warmth, more of an interlining I guess but you could use iron on interfacing on that.


Nancy

Bernie1's picture

(post #24547, reply #2 of 5)

Thanks, Nancy: I don't often use fusible interfacing except on inexpensive fabrics. I will try the silk organza on my sister's coat and I will sew up the center on mine to keep the batiste from shifting.

Elisabeth's picture

(post #24547, reply #3 of 5)

I love using a rotary cutter for smaller pieces in many fabrics.  I find it much easier to get around curves and corners plus the pattern lays flat when I use weights rather than pins.

edgy's picture

(post #24547, reply #4 of 5)

GLUE STICK!!!! The office kind works great & is cheaper than what is in sewing stores.

Nancy

GoodFibrations's picture

(post #24547, reply #5 of 5)

HTC (formerly Handler Textile Corp)  makes a weft insertion interfacing (fusible) which sounds perfect for your project.  You mentioned that your garment is being made of inexpensive wool.  It may be that it is loosely woven.  The weft insertion interfacing will add body, not show through lend stability to the garment and offer concealment of your hand stitching.  Although for years, I was a "purist" and would never use a fusible interfacing, many of the makers of finer quality ready to wear use it with no adverse reaction or effects.  Thus, I too, began experimenting with it and have achieved outstanding results.  Judy Barlup teaches techniques in Japanese Tailoring which encompasses many practical applications used in fine ready-to wear.  You can read about it on her site:  www.uniquetechniques.com  I still use the couture techniques when I am making an "investment" garment because I enjoy the craft and think it is important and valuable to keep these techniques alive.  By the same token, I think labor and time-saving techniques are of value and should not be ignored if we are to inspire those who desire to expedite the process.