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Shoulder Pads in a lined jacket

LindaFaye's picture

I am making Very Easy Very Vogue pattern 9574 - a lined jacket with a zippered front opening.   The instructions say to put the lining in first and then put the shoulder pads in over the lining which seems strange to me.  Is this right or is this a type of tailoring technique that I don't know about.  This is the first Vogue pattern I've ever made.


If I do put the pads outside the lining (meaning closer to my body) shouldn't I cover them in the lining fabric?  I would rather them be out of sight (between the lining and the jacket and out of sight.   Please advise!

zuwena's picture

(post #24947, reply #1 of 19)

Hi,
I don't know the specific pattern you are working with but it depends on the type of jacket and effect you are trying to achieve. A really good tailored jacket will have the shoulder pad inserted in the garment between the lining and the fashion fabric as you have suggested. Before inserting the pad do the following: 1. pin the front and back jacket pieces together at the shoulder. 2. place the shoulder pad on your cutting board. 3. place your pinned pieces on top of the pad, aligning it with the pad (there may be a notch along the armhole end to show you what is the "center" point of the pad) to make sure that the curvature is the same. Trim the pad as necessary (usually just a bit, about 1/8 to 1/4 maximum in some places) to make sure it fits this curvature. 4. insert. Note: Do these steps even if you will cover the pad and insert outside the lining for a more casual jacket.
Hope this helps

Ralphetta's picture

(post #24947, reply #2 of 19)

I would consider the weight of the fabric.  If the outline of the pad shows through the fabric I would not enclose them between the fabric and lining.   Consider which looks better from the outside, isn't that more important than what is "proper?"

LindaFaye's picture

(post #24947, reply #3 of 19)

Thank you both for the replys, both are very helpful and yes the finished look is much more important than what is proper.  You are so right.  Thanks again.

Meg's picture

(post #24947, reply #4 of 19)

If you place the shoulder pad closer to your body rather than between the lining and fashion fabric, make sure that the cut of the lining's shoulder seam matches the fashion fabric (the cut of the armscye as well).  Depending on your pattern pieces the two seams could be different to take into account the height of the shoulder pad.  You might need to alter the seams a bit so that the end result actually fits your shoulder. 

FitnessNut's picture

(post #24947, reply #5 of 19)

A garment with the shoulder pads inserted in this manner screams "homemade"! The pad should always be placed between the lining and the jacket shell.

Pin it in place before inserting the lining, try it on and adjust as necessary so everything hangs correctly for your body. (You may need a different pad than the pattern calls for.) Sew it in loosely along the shoulder seam and tack at the front in the sleeve seam. You may need to tack at the back also. After inserting the lining, tack loosely at the intersection of the shoulder and sleeve seams to the underside of the pad to keep things where they belong.

Follow your bliss ~~ Joseph Campbell
Follow your bliss ~~ Joseph Campbell
LindaFaye's picture

(post #24947, reply #6 of 19)

Thanks for all the advice!

sunnycenter's picture

(post #24947, reply #7 of 19)

wow,
that does sound just plain weird! I would be just as perplexed and really have a hard time not to put it on the inside. Sometimes the pattern companies do also occasionally make mistakes, and if you think you found one, it's good to do what you did and ask questions. Good luck with your jacket.

LindaFaye's picture

(post #24947, reply #8 of 19)

I know!  This is my first vogue pattern, so I am looking for better fit and a more professional look.  I was really surprised by this, but my decision is to place then between the fashion fabric and the lining because I also think following the instructions would make my garmet scream homemade!

Ralphetta's picture

(post #24947, reply #9 of 19)

I am curious about your Vogue pattern.  Is it one labeled "Easy?"  I've noticed in the past that some of their "Easy" patterns have you do squirrely things.

LindaFaye's picture

(post #24947, reply #11 of 19)

It is a Very Easy Very Vogue pattern #9574.

NewRenaissanceWoman's picture

(post #24947, reply #10 of 19)

The only other reason I can think of for putting a pad in this way is so that it can be removed when you want to wear it over a blouse or dress that also has pads. Attached by snaps or velcro.


Other than that 'squirrely' seems an appropriate description.

LindaFaye's picture

(post #24947, reply #12 of 19)

Here is what the instructions say after the instructions are given for the jacket, lining and hemming instructions:


"(A)  Try on the garment for shoulder pad placement. Pin pad to garmet, extending outer edge about 5/8" beyond armhole seam.


(B)  Sew pad to lining shoulder seam."


And these are the end of the instructions for the entire jacket.

Ralphetta's picture

(post #24947, reply #13 of 19)

Oh my, I just ranted about "very easy" patterns about an hour ago on another thread!  I really get on my soap box about them.  They leave WAY too much out in the instructions. Oh well, I'm not going to repeat everything I just typed, but I think they are a real headache.


 

stitchintime's picture

(post #24947, reply #14 of 19)

Just a guess, but seeing how the instructions are so vague, it might mean that you pin the shoulder pad to the jacket for placement but then attach it to the  seam allowances of the lining on the inside, sandwiched between the lining and the fashion fabric at the shoulder. However, it might wobble around up there if it isn't at least tacked to the fashion fabric.


Sounds like Fitnessnut's instructions should give you the right finish.


Edited 10/29/2006 12:34 pm ET by stitchintime

LindaFaye's picture

(post #24947, reply #16 of 19)

Thanks for all the input.  I plan on finishing this jacket this weekend, and putting the pads between the lining and the jacket.  Thanks agin.  LindaFaye

nancynancy's picture

(post #24947, reply #17 of 19)

Linda, whenever you read a pattern and see an instruction that doesn't make sense, the safest thing to assume is that it's a pattern company error. You'd be surprised at how many big and small errors there are. There are extra pattern pieces, missing pattern pieces, duplicate instructions, incomplete instructions, pieces that are too long and pieces that are too short.

ctirish's picture

(post #24947, reply #18 of 19)

LindaFaye, Did you try calling the company? I called for the first time a few weeks ago and they were very helpful.  You call, leave a message with the pattern number and the step you are on and the problem. They research the pattern, the step number and then the person who understands the pattern and  how to put it together calls you back. I was honest with them and told them what I thought about the pattern and the problem I was having with the instructions. They were very good about asking questions and about telling me what they thought was the problem.  I had never called before and I was pleasantly surprised with the service. Of course I wished they had called back immediately, but if they had done that it would have meant no one had a problem with the directions and I would have felt even worse about my abilities.  I would give it a try; it can't hurt to call them....
Good luck, jane

LindaFaye's picture

(post #24947, reply #19 of 19)

Jane,


Thanks for your reply.  I hadn't considered calling them.  I am glad that this board is here though cause I got some really good replys to my question including yours.  I guess when I run into something in the instructions that just don't seem right to me I can just use my best judgement cause sometimes we just know when things are not right.  I had never imagined that instructions could be wrong, or that pattern pieces could be missing.  I guess I just think that pattern companies are perfect and I should have know better cause nothing is perfect.


Thanks again for your reply.


LindaFaye

MeM's picture

(post #24947, reply #15 of 19)

I would ignore that advice and try it with the pads inserted between and then see why they might be telling you to do that . Yes you would cover them and i have seen them held in place by snaps on the pad and a tpe sewn to the shoulder of the jacket.