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Question on sewing against grain

Bernie1's picture

I was looking at buying a gorgeous border print  silk from Sawyer Brook but the border is on the selvage and I wanted to make a little tank top where the border falls at the bottom so I can wear it out. Has anyone ever dealt with this situation and how does the garment lay when it's cut on the cross versis the straight grain? I've never used a border print before so I am not sure how to work with something that needs to be cut on the cross grain and since the fabric is pricey I would like some advice from the experts out there. Thanks.

CarolFresia's picture

(post #24553, reply #1 of 3)

Bernie, it shouldn't make any noticeable difference if you cut the top out on the cross-grain--unless the fabric has a stretch factor that would influence the fit. I bought a wonderful embroidered twill last year, in which the embroidered designs really work best if the pattern is laid out crosswise...but the fabric stretches crosswise, so the stretch would then be along the length of the garment, rather than around the body as you'd really want it. I feel like a dodo for not noticing this when I purchased the fabric, and still haven't decided what to do with it!


Bernie1's picture

(post #24553, reply #2 of 3)

Thanks, Carol - I will try it, maybe just make the top a little looser so it won't bind.

SewTruTerry's picture

(post #24553, reply #3 of 3)

Also remember to really look at the grain line as you are either stay stitching or construction sewing as that will effect the sequence in which you will stitch.  Ex.  down the sleeve instead of up.