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Princess seams

flytootall's picture

I'm trying to take the easy way out to eliminate the gap at the armhole.  I'm making a dress with princess seams.  There is a gap at the armhole.  I know that I can enlarge the center front and the side front to accommodate a large bust.  Is there an easier way, like making a dart at the armhole?

CarolFresia's picture

Bust fitting (post #41233, reply #1 of 1)

Hi, Flytootall,

Does the princess seam originate at the armhole or at the shoulder seam? If at the armhole, you can easily eliminate the gap by reshaping the seam where it intersects the armhole.

If it's a shoulder princess seam, this won't work. A dart would close the gap, but it might not look that great, and you will also create some shaping that could conflict with the shaping provided by the princess seam. One way to solve this is, in the muslin fitting garment, to pin out the dart at the armhole. Transfer this dart to the pattern tissue's side front panel. There, you can rotate this dart out, which would shorten the front armhole length (eliminate the gap), and change the angle of the upper portion of the pattern, from the dart up to the shoulder seam.

Make a new muslin and try it on to see how the armhole and bust fit are. Tip: if you're careful, you can use the same center-front panel from your first muslin, and replace the side panel with this new one.

Carol Fresia, Threads Technical Editor