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linen ripping near seam edit

user-2316230's picture

linen ripping near seam edit (post #36348)

Photos are in my first post.

Somehow my text dissappeared on my first post. Here it is:


I returned to sewing last year after a 30 some year hiatus. Back then I mostly sewed 4H and home ec projects, maybe a few other things. My mother was a seamstress and owned a farbic/sewing machine store. I learned a fair amoung just being around it, but have forgotten much over the years. My first returning project was a Regency style dress made from med-weight  linen for War of 1812 re-enacting. I just finished my second project, an 1811 Riflemans Frock, made of heavy linen. The pattern has been passed down many times and was made from an extant garment. There were no instructions, no markings. I've been careful to not let any machine stitching show and have hand stitched what is on the outside. I've put a double row of cotton duck around the sleeves, the cape, the front edges and bottom for fringing. The biggest problem that has come up is when we washed it a couple of times to get the raveling going on the duck for the fringe, the linen started tearing near the front, just under where the collar is sewn. Several rows of threads have torn. The are 2 lesser spots on the other side. Is this a problem with the linen or have I used too small a stitch, too much tension on the machine, or a combination of factors? The cape was cut on the fold. The collar is a 2 piece stand up, stiffened with  one layer of cotton duck inside. The cape was attached to the garment first, then the collar as per instructions from a fellow re-enactor who is not a tailor but who has made about 20 of these. There is a lot of weight on the garment when hanging to dry. I had no problems with the dress and the linen for both came from a very reputable source. At least I believed it to be. I'm really sick out this and need to know what happened. I can't spend another month making another one and having the same thing happen. I'm certain someone here can help me out.  - Please