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Interfacing

flytootall's picture

I am making my son a suit out of 100% cotton fabric.  I want to interface the entire jacket.  I tested some interfacing I had, but it left bubbles and looked horrible.  My interfacing is several years old and I'm sure there are newer, more reliable, fusible interfacings.  I need advice!!  Thank you!!

CarolFresia's picture

Interfacing for cotton jacket (post #41068, reply #1 of 4)

Hi,

There are a lot of options out there, you're right. Your best course of action is to test, test, test. Try an assortment of types, so you can check for the bubbling you got with the previous kind, as well as the hand of the fabric once the interfacing has been fused.

A weft-insertion knit beefs up the hand of fabric without making it too stiff. There are some lovely, lightweight cotton and rayon woven types that could work without adding weight or bulk.

A key step in this process is to pre-shrink both the fashion fabric and the interfacing. To preshrink the interfacing, fold it and place it in a basic of hot water. Let the water cool, then remove the interfacing, squeeze it gently and roll it in a towel. Then, hang it (if it's a woven) or lay it flat (if it's a knit) to dry. Test-fuse a swatch. It it still bubbles, it may need to be shrunk one more time.

Carol Fresia, Threads Technical Editor

flytootall's picture

Interfacing for cotton jacket (post #41068, reply #2 of 4)

Thank you, Carol!  Can you recommend any brands?  When you say "weft-insertion knit," would that be Easy Knit or Fusi Knit?  I don't know who makes that, but I have two bolts of it.  One is wrapped with the plastic instructions and it says "HTCW" in New Jersey.  I don't think they're in business anymore.  I'm wondering if I'm applying it wrong.  I'm using an Elna Press, with a press cloth sprayed with water.  The iron is set on cotton.  When I fuse the interfacing, it looks fine.  It starts bubbling after I have sewn the pieces together (collar pieces to front facing). and applied it to the jacket.

CarolFresia's picture

Hi, Easy Knit and Fusi-Knit (post #41068, reply #3 of 4)

Hi,

Easy Knit and Fusi-Knit are tricot fusibles, and they might be good for your purposes. However, it could be that they are shrinking a little be more after you've sewn the facing in place and pressed again. That is pretty frustrating! Hence the advice to preshrink, test, then preshrink again if necessary. Though I'm not guaranteeing that would solve the issue. Sometimes fusibles just don't cooperate with a particular fabric. And sometimes they look great all the way through construction and into the laundry, and come out of the washer/dryer bubbled. Also annoying.

For weft-insertion fusibles, you can probably get Armo-Weft (by HTC) and/or Pellon Ultra Weft at Joann's.

A brand I like is Palmer Pletsch's PerfectFuse (PalmerPletsch.com). They have several weights, and the interfacing is 60 inches wide, so a yard goes a long way. I think you could contact them if you have trouble with bubbling and get their expert advice on how to troubleshoot the problem.

CuttingLineDesigns.com has very nice interfacing products, as does SarahVeblen.com. In both cases, the owners of the shop are extremely knowledgeable and responsive, and would likely be able to help you choose an appropriate interfacing.

Carol

flytootall's picture

Interfacing (post #41068, reply #4 of 4)

Thank you again, Carol!!  You have been a wealth of information.  I have a couple bolts of Fusi-knit.  I'll preshrink it twice just to make sure.  I might even try the PerfectFuse.  Judy Barlup recommends Armo-Weft, but I have always had lots of bubbles with that brand.  I think I'[ve read that if the iron is too hot, that can cause bubbling.  Not sure why that would happen.  I always use a press cloth when applying fusible interfacing and spray it with water.  I'll take your advice and test, test, test.