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Interface a loose weave fabric?

cer's picture

I have selected a loose weave, textured, most probably 100% synthetic fashion fabric for a Chanel type suit -- jacket and skirt with decorative fringe, etc. I know I must add interfacing (fusible) to the fashion fabric in order to stop the weave from separating and/or sagging. I also must add additional body to the fabric.


I've experimented, using this same fashion fabric and before embarking upon the whole Chanel suit idea, using fusible tricot, light to medium weight interfacing as a "stabilizer". The back and front of the jacket turned out satisfactory but the sleeves were a tad too stiff for my taste.


QUESTION: What type of interfacing does anyone suggest for a synthetic, loose weave and textured yarn fabric -- to stop the weave from sagging, etc.?


ALSO: Is there a special way and/or direction (on grain, on bias) I should apply the interfacing? I remember my instruction from a Louise Cutting class where there was specific direction and location as to where to place such interfacing... however this instruction was with a much tighter weave, cotton/poly blend fashion fabric.


Thank you

kayl's picture

(post #24595, reply #1 of 7)

There are some exceptionally light-bodied fusible interfacings that might work well for you -- the only one I have personal experience of

is an HTC product sold by Connie Crawford, HTFM-4091, which is an

"industry" rather than "home sewing" interfacing.

http://www.fashionpatterns.com/interface.html Connie can probably make an educated guess as to whether or not this would be a suitable use.

The other person I'd probably go to with this sort of question is Louise Cutting, of Fabric Collections. http://www.fabriccollections.com -- she has a number of imported interfacings, seems to work a lot with "difficult and designer" fabrics. Very knowledgeable when I've spoken with her at the Puyallup

Sew Expo. Some year I'm actually going to make it to her store when

it's open-- (I live diagonally across the country from her.)

Me, I'd match interfacing grain and fabric grain unless I had very good reasons not to do so.

Kay

cer's picture

(post #24595, reply #2 of 7)

Well Kay, I'm lucky in that I live within 5-10 miles from Louise Cutting's home store in Winter Park. I've taken several classes from her staff.


Stupid me though, I did not know she had such a broad variety of interfacings... I'll drive over there.


Thanks for the info. C

kayl's picture

(post #24595, reply #3 of 7)

Ooh! Lucky you! I was in Orlando between Christmas and New Years about 5 years ago when it was closed for a break... did get to peek in the window, though, and drool. <g>

Ah well, we have Fabric Depot here... http://www.fabricdepot.com <vbg>

Kay, who valiantly resisted their Labor Day sale in favor of getting

some stuff made up.

cer's picture

(post #24595, reply #4 of 7)

We had Labor Day sales here too. But, the weather said otherwise. Boo hoo.

SewNancy's picture

(post #24595, reply #5 of 7)

www.thesewingplace.com has a great variety of interfacings, all the latest and they have very good descriptions.  If you order on the phone I'm sure that they will have good info and advice.  When I made my Chanel suit I used different interfacings for different parts.  But I block fused where I could It is much easier to keep the grain in place.  One of the interfacings I used is great for textures called Texture Weft.  Also used sof knit and a stiffer one for the collar stand.  I you have back issues of Threads the series of articles on Armani is a good starting point.  There was one on interfacings a while back too.


Nancy

cer's picture

(post #24595, reply #6 of 7)

Nancy, you mentioned -- you block fused where I could it is much easier to keep the grain in place.


What is "block fusing"? How does one block fuse interfacing? I may already be doing this, but do not know the technical name? Please enlighten me. 


Thank you, Carolyn 

SewNancy's picture

(post #24595, reply #7 of 7)

I have a big cutting table that I stapled an old wool blanket to as padding and I should cover it with muslin but I haven't yet.  Anyway I layed out a piece of fabric wrong side up and then a preshrunk piece of interfacing on top and carefully aligned the grains and edges then I fused it  and cut out the pattern on this sandwich.  If the width of the fabric and the interfacing don't match you can piece the interfacing but a little planning is in order so that it doesn't fall in the middle of a pattern piece.  It sounds like a lot of work, but you are only cutting once and I the grain on the interfacing and the fabric can shift be difficult to align if done separately.


Nancy