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Bias faced neckline

wbgamma's picture

I am sewing a pullover top in a woven fabric with a bias faced neckline. I am having great difficulty topstitching the neckline without wrinkling and puckering. Can anyone help?

Pattiann42's picture

(post #25066, reply #1 of 5)

Can you use a strip of the fabric instead of a facing?   Cut the strip (on bias) wide enough to turn under along each long side and fold over the cut edge of the neckline. Sew long side to the neckline, turn and top-stitch.

If this is an alternative, try on a scrap to see how it works for you.

wbgamma's picture

(post #25066, reply #3 of 5)

Thanks.. I am using a strip of fabric cut on the bias

Josefly's picture

(post #25066, reply #2 of 5)

Are you using a bias strip of fabric to face the neckline, bias tape, or a shaped facing cut on the bias?

Some things that might contribute to puckering have to do with whether you are using more than one line of top-stitching, and if so, if you are stitching in the same direction all the way around the neck with each line of stitching. I assume you are stitching with the bias facing on the bottom, near the feed dogs. As you're stitching, does the top layer seem to stretch, or get pushed toward you while the lower layer is feeding through normally? Your machine's pressure foot might be stretching the top layer of fabric, and that may be corrected by reducing the pressure of the presser foot. Have you tried hand-basting around the neckline before you top-stitch? That would help hold the two layers in place to prevent stretching. A walking foot or a rolling foot also might help to feed the two layers through evenly. If your neckline is a v-neck, there's a large part of it that is on the bias, and likely to stretch, so a stabilizer might be necessaary. Not knowing what kind of machine, fabric, interfacing, etc., you are using makes an answer difficult. I hope some of this helps.

Edited 5/26/2007 7:12 pm ET by Josefly

wbgamma's picture

(post #25066, reply #4 of 5)

Thanks for your reply... I am using a strip of the fabric cut on the bias. I have tried hand basting and I sew with the strip on the bottom... But the walking foot might solve my problem..I'll give it a try tonight!

PASDENOM's picture

(post #25066, reply #5 of 5)

Have you stay stitched both pieces?