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Alternative Interfacing for a Wool Coat

kbalinski's picture

Need some advice on my current winter coat project...


Vogue 2988 Jacket A  calls for 60" wide fusible knit interfacing - couldn't be found at my local Jo-Ann's (what a shock, hee hee) so I have 2 options:


1.  use the 20" wide fusible knit interfacing, but piece it together as the pattern pieces are wider than the interfacing, or


2.  sew in muslin instead of a fusible interfacing.


This is my first coat project, the fabric is a heavy woven wool (great find at the sewing expo), and the jacket is fully lined (lining nearly finished, so I'm anxious to get the outside finished and put the two together).


Which is the better choice?


Thanks,  Kristine

starzoe's picture

(post #25199, reply #1 of 3)

Use the 20" wide interfacing if it is the same weight suggested. Overlap the edges just a tiny bit, enough to hold the two pieces together. Have a good look at the pieces you will be interfacing, you might be able to use the 20" in most spots.

LindaG's picture

(post #25199, reply #2 of 3)

Great pattern!

With a heavy wool, 20" fusible overlapped should be ok, though if there is a lot of texture, you'll need to spend a little more time during the fusing part to get a good adhesion.

Since you are tackling an "average" difficulty pattern, you probably have a lot of experience with fusing, but in case you don't, here's what I recall hearing or reading from Peggy Sagers:

Cut your interfacing pieces carefully. Before fusing, and even before putting the interfacing on top of the fabric, make sure the fashion fabric piece is consistent with the dimensions of the paper pattern. Sometimes picking up the fabric piece and putting it down on the ironing board gets the piece a little off kilter and changes its shape. That would be a headache with all those clever seams to match!

So, reposition the fabric piece so that it matches the paper, then put the fusible on top, spritz and steam.

I hope you post a picture when you are finished.

Linda

Kilroy's picture

(post #25199, reply #3 of 3)

How well do you like the "hand" of the wool fabric you are using? Does it feel too light to you? Or is it just right? If it's too light for the proper drape in the coat you are making, then do the fusible web to make it heavier seeming. On the other hand, if the wool seems the right weight already, why not just use the muslin, so that you support the wool for the seams, without adding weigh to the drape of the fabric? Although how "slithery" your lining is would also be part of the equation....