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Alterations

ntharp's picture

Alterations (post #35914)

I need to shorten the sleeves and length of a lined jacket that was given to me.  Is there a "best" way to do this without taking out the entire lining?

HelgaPataki's picture

alterations the easier way (post #35914, reply #1 of 3)

Work only the area you want altered:  Make sure the shell and lining are ironed smoothly as possibly.  Pin and baste accordingly prior to cutting.  Work the shell first.  Once you have the desired length, make sure you have at least a two inch or 5.5 cm hem allowance.  Base and ensure you like the length before you cut.  For the lining, the cutting line of the lining is the length of the desired shell, where the fold line for the hemming ends.  i.e. the cut end of the linine is the length of the finished hemmed sleeve/body., but this depends on how thick your shoulder pads are, or if you are to have any shoulder pads.  basically if you don't use shoulder pads, the lining can be a little bit shorter than the foldline of the sleeve/bodice.  invisibly hem the main pieces, and invisibly hem the lining to the main piece.  I hope this makes sense.  I always do this manually.  You might have to alter the new hemline because of the gradual increase in width of the sleeve/body to prevent bulk or gathering at the hemline when you hem. 

stillsuesew's picture

If you turn the entire jacket (post #35914, reply #2 of 3)

If you turn the entire jacket inside out, you may find a topstitched seam along one of the sleeves.  If you remove this stitching you will  have access to the entire inside of the jacket.  I have been able to shorten sleeves by taking out the   hem (which is often simply tacked at the seams) and restitching the lining/sleeve seam and retacking the hem .  There may or may not be interfacing involved.  The better jackets will have interfacing that will need to replaced or removed and reused. 

HelgaPataki's picture

altering jacket blazer sleeves (post #35914, reply #3 of 3)

i agree.  I've altered at the hemline and I\ve also altered at the shoulder.  the indicator is based on the style of the garment/sleeve and the details.  as above, if there is detailing such as a vent, you would alter at the shoulder to preserve the vent unless you are not interested in the vent, then you could alter the sleeve at the hemline.  you have to make sure the seam line is smooth and corresponds to the lay out of the sleeve, plus adding allowance at the hemline so folding won't cause puckering.