Replies

1. 
   woodruff | Mar 12, 2007 09:37am | #1

   Vogue 8087 by Claire Schaeffer has a three-piece sleeve. Ms. Schaeffer has done articles and patterns concerned with the Chanel style of construction.

2. 
   bonkers | Mar 12, 2007 04:42pm | #2

   Hi Fabricmaven, I have also just completed a Chanel jacket because of the article in Threads. It was a new experience to work with boucle fabric! Ravels and ravels! Mine is beige and white blend trimmed with white braid. I could not find any silk lining locally so ordered online. Was not right when it arrived,so I used a silky poly blend for the lining and blouse. Let us know how yours turns out. I am thinking of entering mine in the contest Threads is having for garments inspired by Threads articles. Just need to find someone who can take better photos than me!! Good luck with your jacket. Where did you find the fabrics for yours? I live way out in the sticks so the fabric choices are very limited. Keep on sewing, Bonkers

1. 
   Josefly | Mar 12, 2007 05:51pm | #3

   Go, girl! Enter your jacket in the Threads contest and I will cheer for you.I want to try a Chanel jacket myself, and I have some "basket-weave" silk, about the weight of medium-weight linen, that I need to use for something. Do you think this fabric, channel-stitched to a lining, would work for that type of jacket, or would it not have enough body? Anybody have advice?

1. 
   WandaJ | Mar 12, 2007 06:29pm | #4

   As always I look forward to discussions about Chanel inspired garment construction, and now we have the 3-piece sleeve component. Keep talking and I will be tuned in. As far as an answer about either the 3-pc sleeve or intended fabric, I am silent on these, and consider myself a student of the more experienced :->

1. 
   janlorraine | Mar 13, 2007 02:32am | #7

   Regarding the Chanel three-piece sleeve; I too was very curious about this after reading the Claire Shaeffer article in Threads back in the late 80s. In that article, if I remember correctly, it was stated that the three-piece sleeve "had a life of its own." Shaeffer also provided a schematic drawing of the pattern on a grid. Years later (not so long ago), I had the opportunity to attend a one-day seminar that Claire Shaeffer offered here in Atlanta and I specifically asked her about this. She replied that she thought Chanel liked the three piece sleeve because it gave her the opportunity to move the sleeve vent to the upper wrist where her embellishments with trim and buttons would be more visible. I couldn't get any further explanation about the "life of its own" and was told that sometimes a bit of further shaping went into the three piece sleeve, but not much more than is already present in a two-piece sleeve. So, there you go. I, personally, prefer to have the vent on a sleeve in its traditional location and really don't much like a seam running down my upper arm, and have, thus, avoided the three-piece construction. I hope that this isn't more than you wanted to know.Edited 3/13/2007 7:36 pm ET by janlorraine

   Edited 3/13/2007 7:37 pm ET by janlorraine

2. 
   bonkers | Mar 12, 2007 08:03pm | #6

   That sounds like a challenge to use the basket weave fabric, but thats what we like best isn`t it? I think it would take some careful handeling. Go for it. Otherwise , the fabric will be in your stash forever!! Like mine. Ha! Bonk.

1. 
   Josefly | Mar 13, 2007 05:19am | #9

   Yeah, thanks for the support, I think I'll shop for lining fabric. But I think I'll use the 2-piece sleeve, after reading janlorraine's posting.

3. 
   purduemom | Mar 20, 2007 05:48am | #49

   I made a Chanel-inspired jacket last summer using the same gorgeous cream with black wool that was featured in the Threads #121 issue.  The fabric has a very loose weave and not much body.  I channel-quilted the silk charmeuse lining and the jacket is beautiful!  Just like any article I have ever read about Chanel jackets says, mine feels like a cardigan.  It is the best-fitting, best feeling jacket I have ever made or worn!  I believe a big part of the secret to this type of jacket is to select a fabric that has a softer hand/less body.  If you have enough of the silk you should definitely try a sample of the quilting to see whether you like the look and feel.  Happy sewing on the jacket! 

1. 
   WandaJ | Mar 21, 2007 06:17am | #53

   This sounds luscious. Is there any chance we can see a picture of your jacket?

1. 
   purduemom | Mar 25, 2007 05:23am | #57

   If all goes well, this post will have photos of my jacket attached! The inside of the jacket is so pretty, I had to include a picture of it also.

   
2. 
   WandaJ | Mar 25, 2007 05:30am | #58

   Your jacket is stunning and your work superb. The fabric is beautiful. Are you willing to share the name of your source :->) ?  Also, please tell me more about your trimming. This is beautiful, and you are to be congratulated.

3. 
   purduemom | Mar 25, 2007 06:06am | #59

   Thank you for the kind words. The fabric came from Mendel Goldberg in New York, 212-925-9110.  The address and email is listed at the end of the Chanel jacket article in #121.  Mr. Goldberg was very helpful when I called; he sent 5" x 7" swatches of some beautiful boucles in 3 or 4 price ranges; shipping was prompt.  The trim is a rather basic black rayon braid sewn onto another ivory braid with flattened loops on one side.  Both came from Jo-Ann's.  I machine stitched the two braids together and hand stitched the finished trim onto the jacket.   

4. 
   Josefly | Mar 26, 2007 04:01am | #62

   Great jacket, beautifully done. I think I would want to show off the inside, too.

5. 
   WandaJ | Mar 26, 2007 05:20am | #64

   Please answer another question. Did you make a skirt to go with the jacket or do you wear it with a plain skirt?

6. 
   purduemom | Mar 26, 2007 10:57pm | #72

   I purchased enough of the jacket fabric to make a skirt but have not made the skirt yet.  I think I will just stash the extra yardage as it is enough for another jacket, in case this one ever wears out! I made a black wool skirt, Vogue 7937 view D, to wear with the jacket.  I am a teacher and felt a complete suit in the ivory might be a little too dressy for the classroom! 

7. 
   WandaJ | Mar 27, 2007 05:49am | #73

   This sounds really classy. If you had the 21 kindergartners that I had last Thursday and Friday, I doubt you would even consider wearing the jacket to class :->

8. 
   Cherrypops | Mar 27, 2007 06:47am | #74

   Sorry to butt in WandaJ, but i couldn't resist. I sooo totally understand you. I just had my son's 5th birthday party. It rained, and their were 34 kindergarten kids present...all with sticky chocolate fingers. I would have loved to be all dressed up, with heels, but that was out of the question.

   I couldn't imagine wearing such a beautiful garment to school especially on Painting Day, Crayon Day, Glue Day...

   CherryPops

    

9. 
   purduemom | Mar 27, 2007 03:35pm | #75

   Not to worry WandaJ and Cherrypops, I teach 8th grade math.  They may have a little more attitude, but are not quite as messy!  I like to hope I am stirring a little interest in fashion sewing.  Many of my 'kids' are amazed that I make most of my clothes and think it is 'cool' that I sew to express my individuality.  Ah, the respect of 13-14 year olds - every middle school teachers dream!

   Purduemom

10. 
    solosmocker | Mar 27, 2007 07:46pm | #76

    You remind me so much of a very wonderful teacher my daughter had. In our little country town she would show up for work each day at the high school dressed like a million bucks. Clothes to die for. I have to say that the young girls just worshiped her. Many wanted to be "like her" and she certainly inspired my daughter. Years later when DD got her MBA she sought her out to congratulate her. She was quite a role model for these kids and it wasn't appearance but her appearance certainly got their attention so she could teach and inspire the rest.

11. 
    WandaJ | Mar 27, 2007 08:58pm | #77

    I understand the notion of children watching 'the teacher.' Whether they want to admit it or not 'the teacher' can have a very positive or negative bearing on a child's mind in terms of not only their behavior but future aspirations. You are to be applauded for your role of serving as a child's standard bearer, particularly with sewing and its absence from the curriculum.

12. 
    Cherrypops | Mar 28, 2007 02:01am | #78

    Hi there, thank you for mentioning the age group. Now i understand! What a stylish teacher ! It is great they respect you and admire your taste in fashion.

    CherryPops

13. 
    fabricmaven | Mar 25, 2007 08:11am | #60

    Your Jacket is absolutely GORGEOUS. What an inspiration!!!

14. 
    solosmocker | Mar 26, 2007 01:45am | #61

    Your jacket is stunning. I love the black nubby thread. Is that what you actually used for the quilting or did you couch it on? The cut of this jacket is just beautiful. Which pattern did you use, if you don't mind? I love this sort of cut and it works for my figure really well so I would love to know. TIA.

15. 
    purduemom | Mar 26, 2007 10:48pm | #71

    Thank you for your compliment.  The black nubby thread is part of the fashion fabric.  I used ivory for the quilting.  As far as the pattern goes, it is Simplicity 4954 for the body and Vogue 2844 for the sleeve.  I generally do not care for the fit on Simplicity, but already had this pattern for my daughter and the size 4 princess seams were perfectly drafted through the bust for me!  I was thrilled to not have to do any fitting other than lengthening sleeve and jacket length.

16. 
    MargieT | Mar 26, 2007 05:23am | #65

    What a beautiful jacket! Congratulations!

17. 
    fabricholic | Mar 30, 2007 03:52am | #79

    Beautiful jacket. You are so talented.Marcy

2. 
   Josefly | Mar 24, 2007 06:18am | #54

   Thank you so much for your description of your jacket. With that encouragement I will try it with my silk. Sounds like it feels wonderful. Did you do the channel stitching as described in one of the Chanel jacket articles - that is, stopping the channel stitching short of top and bottom of the pattern pieces? Or did you channel-stitch the fabrics together, then cut the pattern out?

1. 
   purduemom | Mar 24, 2007 04:25pm | #55

   I did the stitching as described in the Threads article, stopping  2 inches from the top and bottom of the pattern pieces.  Now, I am planning on trying the quicker method described in issue #128 to compare differences in construction time and appearance.  I found it took me as long to decide on the trim as it did to construct the whole jacket!  You will have to post a picture when you get the jacket finished.

2. 
   Josefly | Mar 24, 2007 11:23pm | #56

   I'll try to post a photo when finished, but don't have a good camera setup at present. I'd love to see yours, too. Thanks for the description, and I'll re-check issue 128.

2. 
   fabricholic | Mar 12, 2007 06:33pm | #5

   I hope you enter it in the contest. I would love to see it. I will cheer you on, also.

3. 
   fabricmaven | Mar 13, 2007 04:14am | #8

   Hello to all who have commented on my three piece sleeve query. I went to Jo_Ann today and purchased V8087 as someone suggested. After comparing two piece sleeve to this three piece I will decide if it will make a huge difference in the position of the vent. As I said in my last posting I have made two jackets. I found both boucle type fabrics at Jo-ann on sale for $5.oo a yard and figured it would be no great loss if I wasn't happy with the results. Turns out that the lining fabrics cost way more than the shell. So did the braid material. I found lining fabric at Hancock, one in a blouse fabric and the other in the upholstery section. Both linings were a poly/rayon. Using the inspirations from Threads # 121 & 128 I was able to come up with jackets that I find pleasing and have enjoyed the creative process. I did use V7975 for both.  I started out with a muslin and was able to identify  the places that should be altered for a more pleasing fit i.e. sixty year old rounded shoulders, short waist and sleeve adjustments. Where I diverged from  the articles advice was that I cut bias strips out of the lining fabric and trimmed the jacket edge and sleeves. I cut bias 4'' wide.  Creating a 1" band on right and wrong side of jacket. I sewed it on from the rightside and hand finished on the wrong side. This takes care of body for the edges. On the bottom of the jackets I hand sewed a lead curtain weight tube that I put on the inside of the bias to give the weight of a chain. I have not seen a Chanel worthy chain in any fabric store in this area but my idea resolved the weight needed in the bottom of the jacket. The fun part was buying ribbon or yarn for the braided trim. I crocheted (chain stitch) three different yarns or ribbon  to pick up colors from the boucle and then braided them together.   I made very thin loops out of the lining fabric for the button closures. I placed them on the bias trim in the appropriate places then sewed the braid over the sewn edges centered in the middle of the bias trim. I put buttons on both sides of the center front of the jacket. The first jacket has patch pockets of which I am not overly fond. The second jacket pockets were changed so that they fit between the princess seams in the front and the bottom of the pocket is sealed in the bias trim. I will send pictures when I can lasso my husband into taking the pictures and someone might share how you post them in this venue . P.s. everything was hand washed before I began. No shrinkage, no drycleaner.

1. 
   bonkers | Mar 13, 2007 08:07pm | #10

   I can`t wait to see the photos of your jacket! I think you must be a very skilled and dedicated sewer to do all the extra steps making the jacket. How did you estimate how much yarn to crochet in order to make the braid come out right? I tried to braid the trim from raveled yarn in my fabric , but could not manage to keep from having joined ends that showed and looked tacky. I gave up and bought plain purchased braid. Did you have trouble making a smooth joint where the braid met at the ends of trimmed edges? I haven`t started my second jacket yet. Procrastination!! Now the sunshine is  calling me outdoors. Maybe tomorrow. Bonk

1. 
   kayrosie | Mar 13, 2007 11:53pm | #11

   Hey girls you are all way to advanced for me. I can see that now. It all sounds to hard for me but sure would like to tackle it. I might try that after I have finished the bridesmaid dresses and things I have waiting for me. You have inspried me to do some experimenting. I have some of that material in my stash too. The boucle.  Don't think I spelled that right. You get the right idea.  Later.

    

2. 
   fabricmaven | Mar 14, 2007 04:23am | #12

   Hi , I'm going to attempt to send along photos of my jackets. To answer your question about the braid. I measured  the length around the jacket edges, sleeve and pocket top edge. Then crocheted a chain in the three yarns or ribbons I was using making them at least a third longer than the measurement because after braiding them together they would be shorter but I didn't know by how much. My guess worked out because I did have some left over. In the lighter colored jacket I used a rayon trim from the bridal department at Hancock as one of the components. This one I did not crochet but did preshrink in very hot water and then dried in clothes dryer on high. It was a rayon and shrank quite a bit. By doing this it changed the hand of the trim and it became very soft and pliable. My 15 yd purchase shrank to less than 12 yds. Both linings were a rayon/poly mix, which I machine washed and dried as well as the shell fabrics which are acrylic and some poly.The lighter colored jacket did not have a rose colored thread in the weave, so to create some connection to the lining color and the trim I quilted the jacket shell with a rose colored cotton perle. I put the floss in my machine bobbin and quilted following the stripe in the lining fabric. Let me know what you think. P.s. Thanks to other postings I went back and found quite an extensive article in the June/July 1989 No.23 Issue pg.24 on Chanel Jackets. It always amazes me that I have a lot of info right here. I just forget to look. 

   
1. 
   woodruff | Mar 14, 2007 05:51am | #13

   What lovely, lovely jackets! You should be very proud of your work.

2. 
   cynthia2 | Mar 14, 2007 06:01am | #14

   Your jackets are stunning and certainly an inspiration for the rest of us.  Thanks for sharing the photos - a description would not have done these justice!  Cynthia

3. 
   Cherrypops | Mar 14, 2007 06:07am | #15

   What talent and patience you have.

   These are two exquisite jackets. I love them!

   Well done, Thanks for showing your lovely garments to us.

   CherryPops (australia)

4. 
   Josefly | Mar 14, 2007 06:21am | #16

   Thank you for those great photos, including the selection of yarns you used to make your trim. Love the colors on both jackets, including the trim and the buttons and button loops. I also think the pink thread used to quilt your fabric is a great addition, and soooo nicely done. Wow. I'm going to look back at your posts to see how you sewed your braided chains onto the edges.

5. 
   fabricmaven | Mar 14, 2007 07:01am | #17

   Thank you to all that have posted such nice compliments on my jackets. It's really nice to find a place where you can talk about creativity and get some engagement from others. I live in Virginia Beach, Virginia and we have Jo-Ann Fabrics, Hancock and an independently owned store called Fabric Hut which is high end in price. I read a lot of the posts on gatherings and have come to see that most of us sewers who do not live in big cities have a hard time finding decent inspiration in our fabric selections. I've come to see that my creativity is limited only by my thinking not by my resources. I've started to use a lot of home decorator fabrics in my clothing and going to craft stores to create trims. I've even made handbags from unusual placemats I find at Tjmaxx. Once I bought giant sized silk tank tops at Burlington coat factory cut them apart and quilted pieces onto batiste and made some interesting vest style type summer tops. My next idea is to buy two Pashmina shawls (same color) like you see in the New York Times Mag ads and make some Chanel jackets. It would be really cool to find some interesting blouse material with a pattern that you could copy onto the pashmina wool as you were quilting it. On and on, the best part should be the journey not the end product. What do you think? 

6. 
   Susannah | Mar 14, 2007 09:35am | #19

   I've just looked at the photos of your jackets - they are just fantastic!  I love the use of the colour in the quilting thread on the pink-lined one!

   I am just mustering up the courage to tackle a Chanel jacket, and your postings, with the detailed steps you took, together with your photos, have really inspired me!  I have a copy of the early issue of Threads on the Chanel jacket, as well as Claire Schaeffer's pattern (dare I mention that there was also an article by her on the use of this pattern in a recent issue of vogue sewing?)

   thank you so much for sharing your work with us!

   regards

   Susannah

7. 
   Josefly | Mar 15, 2007 02:12am | #23

   Yes, you are thinking "outside the box", and I like your ideas. A couple of years ago (more?) I bought a double-woven wool paisley shawl, since I can't resist paisley, at TJMaxx, and it's long enough and wide enough to make a skirt, which I keep saying I'll do. It's a very light weight wool, and I'd have to come up with a good lining, but I would get more use of it as a skirt, and would never be able to find similar material I'm sure.

8. 
   fabricmaven | Mar 15, 2007 03:43am | #24

   That is a great idea! Would you make a straight skirt or one that is softly gathered. Years ago I bought a straight below knee skirt @ Loehmann's before they closed shop. The skirt was Italian wool fabricated in Italy. The cool thing about the design was that it had only one seam. The skirt opened in the front where the side front dart would normally be. It had a half inch fold down the side front where the zipper was placed at the waist and it had a vent right at the knee. Otherwise there was a dart on the opposite side of the front, darts on each side where a side seam would be, ending where the hipline would be and two back waistline darts in the usual place and a very narrow waistband. I thought it ws such an elegant approach to creating a simple skirt without the usual amount of seamlines. Another great idea would be to have a sarong type skirt that tied in soft folds at the waist if your waistline would be complimented by that style. Go for it, I know it will be great.   

9. 
   WandaJ | Mar 15, 2007 05:59am | #26

   It's interesting that you spoke of a straight skirt without side seams. When researching Claire Shaeffer's writings about creating Chanel-like jackets, I came across an article she wrote in reference to Chanel's skirts. These skirts did not have a sideseam for the purpose of being able to reduce bulk and create and control shaping through the waist and hip area.

10. 
    fabricmaven | Mar 15, 2007 07:23am | #27

    Hi, As I mentioned in a previous post, I found an article from Threads # 23 June/July 1989. I scanned the illustration of the Pattern drawn from Claire Shaeffer's study of a 1972 Chanel jacket which I'm enclosing. Guess the only way to see why she would have the three pieces in the jacket, sleeve and skirt is to draft a pattern, make a muslin and see the difference. I'm assuming that the grid in the photo is one inch. I wonder if the skirt without side seams is a panel that extends around to the places where the front and back darts would go. What do you think?

    
11. 
    WandaJ | Mar 16, 2007 01:11am | #32

    Thank you for scanning and sharing this illustration from the Threads article. I immediately noticed the reference to the higher shoulder in the front pattern piece for ease of movement and stability of the jacket at the hemline. I do not recall that I've noticed patterns having this 'lift' in their fronts. What have other participants noticed in this area of their jacket patterns.

    Another question along this line is: does the Vogue Pattern you used (V7975) have this higher front shoulder, or did you have to build it in to the pattern's design?

    Fabricmaven, now that you have shared with us a portion of the article, what are the chances of zealous, inquisitive people like me having you respond favorably to a request to scan the whole article and post for our reading? THe reason I ask is that this magazine is not readily available. Example: I went to e-bay to look for it about a week ago. I found 2 or 3 copies. When I got ready bid? Gone.

    Thank you again and please give consideration to this most recent request.

12. 
    fabricmaven | Mar 16, 2007 01:59am | #33

    Hi, Vogue 7975 is not in anyway drafted to be a Chanel style jacket. It is just a simple princess line jacket without shoulder pads. It leaves a lot to your imagination, After doing a muslin of the original pattern, I saw that I would have to do some work to make it look effortless on me. I had to raise the underarm seam a half inch and do the same for the sleeve pattern. The wrist area is very narrow on the sleeve. In my second iteration ( the light colored jacket) I put a quarter inch increase on the wrist edge starting from zero at the elbow area on all four sleeve seams. (upper and under arm seams. It looked much more pleasing. I want to do another jacket with a vented sleeve so that is what started the quest to understand the three piece sleeve. As to copying the article from Thread's # 23 I will try. This issue was published when the magazine had a longer format by an inch in lenth and I'm not sure that I can scan each page and have it fit. I will work on this tonight to see if possible. Maybe if the Threads editor sees this they could just provide a pdf. of that article that all interested parties could save in a file.

13. 
    Cherrypops | Mar 16, 2007 02:29am | #34

    Fabricmaven,

    I like your suggestion >>>>Maybe if the Threads editor sees this they could just provide a pdf. of that article that all interested parties could save in a file.<<<

    You will be breaching copyright laws if you attach the file yourself:

    http://forums.taunton.com/tp-gatherings/messages?msg=1910.8 is a previous discussion regarding the reproduction of articles. It was posted by Carol Fresia member of Staff at Threads.

    Please read this before you do post the article.

    CherryPops.

14. 
    fabricmaven | Mar 16, 2007 05:46am | #37

    Oh God, I hope they don't know where I live, I just sent the article. Hope no one comes to slap some cuffs on me.

15. 
    HeartFire2 | Mar 16, 2007 05:53am | #38

    you can delete the entry, and I think you probably should, unless the editors do it for you, this is clearly a copyright violation!

16. 
    Cherrypops | Mar 16, 2007 05:58am | #39

    you are correct heartfire2. I accidentally deleted my message .#41. Basically said what you said in .#40

17. 
    fabricmaven | Mar 16, 2007 06:04am | #40

    mission accomplished

18. 
    susannah_sews | Mar 19, 2007 01:13am | #46

    Hi

    Thought I would add my bit to this discussion about copyright.  In Australia at least, there is a copyright exemption for the purposes of research, criticism etc (and by criticisim I mean the literary type, rather than being mean!) which allows for reproduction of part of a work.  This allows quotes from books and poems, and short clips from movies, for the purpose of discussion the book, poem, movie etc. 

    I note that the extract from threads included in the previous post is not the whole article, but one of the diagrams in the article.  If I reproduced it, or a small section of text, for the purpose of discussing the relevance or worth of the article itself, in Australia that would not be a breach of copyright. 

    I checked back on the reference to the post by Carol Freesia, which related to the reproduction, in entirity, of an article (which would have been a copyright issue). 

    Any current Threads editors care to advise here?

    regards

    Susannah

    (and PS - where is Carol Freesia these days?  I noticed that she isn't listed in Threads as being on staff anymore.  I really liked her input)

19. 
    Cherrypops | Mar 19, 2007 01:36am | #47

    Good morning Susannah,

    You are correct in noting the pattern layout diagram was not the whole article.

    post 38 (now deleted) was the complete article which fabricmaven put up on main screen.

    she hadn't read my post regarding copyright issues regarding Threads until after she posted the whole article, hence removing the post.

    Thank you for making us all aware of the Australian side of copyright.

    CherryPops

20. 
    janlorraine | Mar 16, 2007 03:00am | #35

    This pattern is not for a higher shoulder, but for a higher arm-hole. Take note. The higher arm-hole allows for more freedom of movement since when the arm is raised, the rest of the jacket is not raised as much as it would be with a lower arm-hole. This (the raising of the skirt of the jacket) was an issue with Chanel and is the reason she applied a chain weight to the hem of her jackets -- so that they would fall back into place after the arms were raised.

21. 
    WandaJ | Mar 16, 2007 04:58am | #36

    Your explanation made a lot of sense. Thanks.

22. 
    Josefly | Mar 16, 2007 06:05am | #41

    What an interesting skirt that sounds like. The half-inch fold you mentioned, where the zipper is installed in the area where the side front dart would be - that's a fold, or tuck, that extends the full length of the skirt, to the vent at the knee? Does the fold act like a "lapped" fold to hide the zipper? I love the idea of fewer seams, replaced by darts, especially suitable for fabrics that are prettier without seams. My skirt, I think, will have to have side seams - not wide enough for just one seam. But it will be softly gathered. Thanks so much for your suggestions - they have me thinking.

23. 
    fabricmaven | Mar 16, 2007 06:16am | #42

    It was a sharply creased fold that went all the way to the hem. There was a line of stitching that held it in place. The zipper was installed at the waist and the vent started at the knee area. There was a small button at the waistband. Since I no longer have the skirt I could be wrong about the half inch fold, but I just remeber it being very narrow but still hiding the zipper. 

24. 
    Josefly | Mar 16, 2007 06:33am | #43

    Thank you for that very prompt answer. I think I'll experiment a little with that zipper-hiding fold.

25. 
    fabricmaven | Mar 16, 2007 08:05am | #44

    I guess the correct term would be lapped. Just under the zipper was a horizontal stitching line as  you would finish a fly in a zipper.

26. 
    WandaJ | Mar 15, 2007 05:54am | #25

    I too thank you ever so much for sharing your beautiful jackets and information about their detail with us. Yes, for me also your sharing is serving as a sense of inspiration. I am particularly interested in the braiding aspect as I too have an extremely difficult time finding suitable braid and in natural fibers in my area of the country. The information you provided will be saved in a file that I am compiling about the topic of making or re-creating Chanel-like garments. Again, I thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge and your enthusiasm about your future creative endeavors.

27. 
    NovaSkills | Mar 18, 2007 06:24pm | #45

    Great photos of great garments!

    I have always thought I'd like a Chanel type jacket, but would need to practically custom draft the pattern to fit my narrow, square shouldered, long torso and full bust. Looking at your jackets has moved me a bit closer to doing it, I'll say.

    One hint for trim to match--don't forget to consider serger tailings made of whatever mixture of threads creates the exact color and texture you want. Weave/crochet/knit/braid this "yarn" in with others for smashing custom braid.

    Keep making your dreams happen. My biggest roadblock is also availability of classy fabric, but also having anywhere or any weather to wear such lined, dressy garments. I live in South Florida, working backstage in a regional theatre. It's a jeans and tee-shirts world most of the time.

28. 
    HeartFire2 | Mar 14, 2007 02:44pm | #20

    Your jackets are very nice! wow, what pattern did you use?

29. 
    fabricmaven | Mar 14, 2007 09:22pm | #22

    Hi, I used Vogue 7975. I was not happy with the sleeve drafting. So you might want to make a practice sleeve to see if you like it. I have thin arms and thought the wrist area needed to be larger. Hope you make lots of jackets.

30. 
    HeartFire2 | Mar 15, 2007 03:50pm | #29

    Thank you for the advice about the sleeve in the pattern

31. 
    bonkers | Mar 14, 2007 06:05pm | #21

    Wow! I am stunned!! Your jackets are terrific. You are the one who should be entering the Threads contest!! My jacket looks like everyday clothes compared to yours. But I made it to wear to 50th class reunion, so it didn`t need to be as beautiful as yours. Wish I had acess to the beautiful fabric and trim like you. Keep up the great work. Bonkers

32. 
    jatman | Mar 15, 2007 07:47am | #28

    Your jackets are just stunning.  Thank you for sharing!

    JT

33. 
    fabricholic | Mar 19, 2007 07:22pm | #48

    Your jackets are gorgeous. Thanks for posting pictures of them.Marcy

34. 
    Marionc032 | Mar 20, 2007 11:11am | #50

    What amazing work! I'm generally not fond of the Chanel-type jacket, but this is inspirational. They say hard work is its own reward, but in this case, gorgeous jackets are yours.Marion

35. 
    fabricmaven | Mar 20, 2007 06:51pm | #51

    THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU.

36. 
    susannah_sews | Mar 26, 2007 04:16am | #63

    Hi

    a query about the Chanel style jacket.  I think the pattern you used had a princess seam - did you quilt the lining to the shell fabric before constructing the princess seam, or after?  Claire Shaffer's instructions are for the quilting to be done before construction, but her Vogue pattern has no shaping darts or seams prior to the quilting.  I have the pattern you used, as well as the claire schaffer pattern, and just wondered how you approached the quilting on your wonderful garments

     

    regards

     

    Susannah

37. 
    fabricmaven | Mar 26, 2007 07:43am | #66

    Hi, Yes the jacket has a princess seam. I followed some of the suggestions from the article in Threads # 128 pg. 40. I constructed the shell and lining and placed them wrong sides together. I carefully pinned  all of the seams and stitched in the ditch. On the first jacket I applied patch pockets but on the second jacket I  inserted the pockets  into the princess seam line and the side seams. Which I like better than patch pockets. After machine quilting. I closed the shoulder seams and followed the directions for hand finishing the shoulder lining seam. I then sewed the lining and shell in a 5/8ths seamline all around then sewed again on the 6/8ths line. Then trimmed away to the 5/8ths and then applied a continuous bias around all edges. I inserted the sleeves in the same manner as on page 43. If you do the pockets like I did please remember to think about the quilting lines and the pocket trim. That part gets a little tricky. 

38. 
    susannah_sews | Mar 26, 2007 09:30am | #67

    Thanks for such clear directions.  I appreciate the time you have taken to share your experiences with us!

    Constructing the princess seams prior to quilting sounds the most practical, because otherwise the quilting would get  a bit difficult.  the tip about stitching in the ditch sounds like a good one - it would be quite invisible from the outside - but did you manage to line up the seam in the shell fabric exactly over the lining?  (and if not, would it matter anyway?)

    thanks again - your generousity in sharing your experience is typical of what makes this discussion board so valuable!

    regards

    Susannah

39. 
    fabricmaven | Mar 26, 2007 06:19pm | #70

    Hi, It is very important to make sure the seams are lined up. Otherwise it will be obvious that the stitch in the ditch has missed its mark on both sides. Make some test seams to adjust the tension and find a pleasing stitch length for the quilted effect you are trying to create. The lined side is supposed to look as pretty as the shell.

40. 
    jgrue | Apr 05, 2007 05:12am | #81

    Wow! I love them both--great colors and trim combinations. I'm inspired to look at my fabric stash and get to work on something like this.JG

41. 
    fabricmaven | Apr 05, 2007 06:14am | #82

    Go for it!! You'll have fun. But I warn you it is addictive. You won't stop with just one.

3. 
   one | Mar 21, 2007 01:05am | #52

   I don't know if this will help but, when I knit it takes approximatly 4 times the length of the row to complete without attaching new yarn. I've always used that approximation when I measure. I've generally had good luck. For example, if you need a 6 inch piece of trim, start with at least 24inches of yarn. Usually I give myself a couple of "just in case" inches. I'd rather have too much than too little. Hope this helps.

   One

2. 
   Susannah | Mar 14, 2007 09:28am | #18

   Wow - this sounds great!  I too can't wait to see the photo.  What an inspiration!

    

   Susannah

3. 
   solosmocker | Mar 15, 2007 07:00pm | #30

   Your creativity is phenomenal and your workmanship exquisite. This is why we sew. Thanks for inspiring us and Amber if you are out there, check these jackets out for a Threads inspiration article.

1. 
   fabricmaven | Mar 15, 2007 07:48pm | #31

   Hi and Thank you, I'm kind of overwhelmed at all the nice compliments I've gotten on my jackets. Hope more people will share their creativity, that way we can all stay inspired by one another.

4. 
   AmberE | Mar 26, 2007 04:05pm | #68

   Looking forward to your entry!

1. 
   AmberE | Mar 26, 2007 04:06pm | #69

   In fact, I can't wait to see everyone's entries into Inspired by Threads!

3. 
   Cherrypops | Apr 04, 2007 02:26pm | #80

   Jane, have you read this discussion? there are photos also. CherryPops