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Jeffery Diduch's article in the July issue

NancyKSews's picture

Jeffery Diduch's article in the July issue (post #36406)


The new issue arrived on Saturday and I eagerly read The Sleeve-cap Seam and the Armscye.  The main idea is measureing the seam line segments on the armscye and the sleeve cap.  Great. But no where is there any information on where to locate these segment points, ABCDEF on the armscye and abcdef on the sleeve cap.  Most commercial patterns only have the A  C and E  if you are lucky.  Burda only gives you C and A.  So my question is how  are the other marks located on the armscye and the sleevecap.

JefferyDiduch's picture

Nancy   Thank you for (post #36406, reply #1 of 3)



Thank you for your question.  It is still possible to make the adjustments described in the article using only the notches provided by the pattern maker; disregard the markings on the worksheet and add new segments according to the commercial pattern's notches.


  It may astound you, however, to learn that a typical sleeve setter in a tailored clothing factory can set between 15 and 20 pairs of sleeves per hour. Skill and equipment aside, precise notches on the pattern make the job much simpler as there are small segments to sew, without requiring any pinning or basting.  I will show you a way to add a few notches to a pattern that only has notch a.  This notch layout is simpler than the one shown in the article, but may still be advanced for those who are not familiar with patternmaking.

Before beginning, all pattern pieces must be lined up "in the straight" with grain lines parallel.  It may help to draw lines perpendicular to the garin to help you in keeping everything straight.

1. Notch B on the front armhole can be located by measuring down about 3 1/2" from the shoulder.

2. Match the sleeve to the armhole at notch a.  Mark notch F on  the armhole where the sleeve inseam is located.  Measure the armhole between notch A and notch B.  We need 1/8" of fullness in this segment, so apply this measurement plus 1/8" to the sleeve lo locate notch b on the sleeve.

eg- armhole segment A-B is 3" so sleeve segment a-b is 3 1/8"

3. Place the undersleeve on the armhole.  Measure the sleeve this time from f to d. A good rule of thumb to use is 1/8" fullness for every inch of armhole, so if the sleeve from f to d measures 4" we want to assume 1/2" fullness (1/8" x 4).  Subtract the fullness amount from the length of the sleeve segment (4" minus 1/2"= 3 1/2"), then measure this amount along the armhole to locate notch D.

4. Measure the armhole from D to C on the back and from B to C on the front, and add these two.  eg Back 4" + Front 3"= 7".  Now measure the sleeve between b and d.  Subtract the armhole length from the sleeve length to determine the amount of fullness.  eg Sleeve 8" minus armhole 7"= 1" fullness.  Divide this amount by two, in this case 1/2".  Since the front armhole segment from B to C was 3", we will add half the fullness amount to get 3 1/2" and apply this measurement to the sleeve from b to locate c.  If you have much more or less than 1/8" of fullness for every inch of armhole, you may want to adjust the top sleeve.  See the article in the magazine for instructions on making the top sleeve bigger or smaller.




overflowingstash's picture

I was wondering the exact (post #36406, reply #3 of 3)

I was wondering the exact same thing and ended up guestimating (and buying reprint of The Modern Tailor Ouffitter And Clothier Vol I & II in the process and seemingly gotten no closer to the answer)!

Thanks Nancy for asking and thanks Mr Diduch for your detailed reply!

NancyKSews's picture

thank you (post #36406, reply #2 of 3)

Thanks so much for your detailed explanation. I'll be studying it and translating it to my sleeve cap. I understand the pitch mark, I have a rather forward right shoulder and use two different sleeves for woven fabrics.  I assume that a muslin is necessary for me to find the pitch mark that suits my shoulders and sleeve cap.