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Help with fitting

Lona Haymaker's picture

I need advice on the correct way to make a pattern adjustment.  I made a muslin for elastic waist pants.  My front and back waist lines are different.  The back needs to be higher than the front.  Is it okay to cut the fabric with uneven waist or should the alteration be in the crotch length/depth?  I finally got the crotch seam to a point where it is comfortable and looks okay.  I'm thinking if I add to the back pattern piece, I would need to do the same on the front pattern.  Confusing to me...  All help is appreciated.

CarolFresia's picture

Hi, Lona, It is certainly (post #40228, reply #1 of 1)

Hi, Lona,

It is certainly OK for the back and front waist heights to be different. I suggest making a muslin that is 2 or 3 inches higher than the desired finished waist position. Put on the muslin, and tie a strip of narrow elastic around your waist. Settle the elastic where you want the finished pant waistline to sit, and then adjust the pant muslin so the crotch seam is where you like it to fit. With a marker, draw along the lower edge of the elastic to mark the desired finished waistline. Take off the muslin, tidy up this line (it'll be uneven), and transfer it to your pattern. This represents the waistline. Above it, add a casing or seam  allowance, as desired.

Carol Fresia

Threads Technical Editor