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Fitting Pants

almost's picture

Fitting Pants (post #36003)

in

I just finished  Lynn MacIntrye's book on fitting pants and since there seems to be multiple adjustments that need to be made to my hip and thigh area, I am very confused.  Do I do them all?  I think I am going to end up with some really weird looking pants!

Can anyone give me some guidance?  Thank you!

stillsuesew's picture

I do not know Lynn MacIntyre's (post #36003, reply #1 of 4)

I do not know Lynn MacIntyre's book or how many adjustments you need.   The best way I have found to fit pants is to start with some cotton gingham.  Cut shorts but long enough to deal with thigh issues.   (you don't need the entire length to play with.)  Cut with a large seam allowance (at least one inch bigger than you think you need.)  Cut with extra at the waistline also.   Sew up regular seams.  Put a piece of elastic around your waist (even if you intend to use a zipper and waistband later.  Now you can fit the pants.  Pull up the pants to fit at the crotch. Pin in darts or pleats.  Pin in fullness on the side seams.    Sit down to see if there is enough ease for sitting room.  Keep the gingham checks straight up and down and straiight sideways throughout this process.  When you are done you will be able to draw on the pin lines with marker and have your basic pattern.  The darts and pleats may not be even the way you pinned them so you should check that they are evenly spaced  Add seam allowance and try cutting a pair out of something else to see if it works for you.  

It is fun to start to see these lay smooth and hang the way you want them to.  It really does work.

Pattiann42's picture

Fitting Pants. (post #36003, reply #2 of 4)

Yes, you will have to do what is needed for the best fit.    The pant should fall freely from your largest measurement  to the hem.

Make a "muslin" and then alter as needed before applying the changes to your fashion fabric.

Record the changes for your next pattern.

zuwena's picture

fitting pants (post #36003, reply #3 of 4)

I agree with all of the previous guidance.  I would just like to note that you should keep in mind that bodies are not usually symmetrical. So when transferring measurements be sure that they are on the correct side.  Ultimately you will use the larger measurements for the final draft of the pattern, because it can always be fine-tuned on the smaller side.  Happy Sewing.   Z

Merlinmagic's picture

basic adjustments (post #36003, reply #4 of 4)

I seem to remember when learning to sew that there were some pretty basic adjustments to be made while making pants and I can not find them anywhere. Is there a basic rule to adjustment? aka if it puckers in the crotch, take in the side seam, if it puckers on the thigh take in XX? You get my order of question. It was some 30 years ago that I am trying to recall from!!

Thanks much for any info.