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drop shoulders

user-1135690's picture

drop shoulders (post #36086)

in

I am making a jacket with dropped shoulders and am wondering about how to achieve the best fit.  There is much info about set in sleeves, but so far the only thing I have found regarding the dropped shoulder is how to determine and alter the sleeve length in an article by Louise Cutting  I haven't even been able to find a good picture of such a sleeve from the side as garments are seldom photographed to show that area specifically.  How much should a proper shoulder seam be dropped?   How much extra room should the bodice have to allow for proper installation of this kind of sleeve?   How do you know how many "folds" are enough around the upper arm?  What other details do you look at to determine if you have the proper fit/appearance in this looser type of garment?  How do you alter these details should that be necessary?

Thanks so much for any information any of you can impart.

stillsuesew's picture

My drop shoulder garment is (post #36086, reply #1 of 3)

My drop shoulder garment is only about an inch and a half off the shoulder.  The sleeve has no folds in it.  And the sleeve is cut with a much lower top edge.  (laying flat it oks like a slightly flattened C)  The garment is a little wider across the shoulders, upper back  and the front to accommoate the loss of sleeve at the top,( which I like because it gives a little freer arm movement.)  I would pin together a mock up and see what works for you.

user-1135690's picture

drop shoulders (post #36086, reply #2 of 3)

Thanks for your answer.  What I found out was that I had to use the size small sewing lines for the front of the upper bodice and the sleeves, but size medium on the back ( my back is broader). Unfortunately, it didn't occur to me at first that this would make such a difference  on a loose fitting pattern.  It made the high bust measurement smaller on the bodice and that was enough along with the slightly smaller sleeve to remove all those folds that occured originally.  It was an easy solution really, but another one of those times when I said, "now why didn't I think of that earlier."

user-2410140's picture

drop shoulder seam location (post #36086, reply #3 of 3)

Due to injury, my shoulders are two differnt lenths from neck to arm socket crease when arm is raised..  I also don't like really droopy dropped shoulders. A 1-1/2 inch drop seems like a lot. How do I determine where the "true" shoulder seam is on a pattern and thus how much of a "drop" of "off shoulder" the pattern calls for? I have a large bust and one of my reasons to resume sewing for myself is to get shoulder seams to be correctly placed. Almost all  the Cutting LIne patterns and many of the new patterns - even t-shirts - are featuring dropped shoulders. Thanks from a novice!