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altering a princess seamed bridesmaid dress for pregnancy

nancylee02 | Posted in Fitting on

 I have a david’s bridal princess seamed – A line dress that I am to wear for my sister’s wedding in june. At the time I will be 7 months pregnant with my third child- so I have an idea how big I’m going to get. I’ve done a lot of sewing before but I just wanted to bounce this off of other sewers before I start to cut. I’m planning on adding gores to the two front most seams to get more width for the belly. I’m not sure about adding them to the sides or back. I don’t want to much fullness and end up looking like a tent. Ideally I would like to end up looking as close as possible to the other girls. I have a cummerbund/belt that will hide the top of the gores.

I did, figureing that I would be pregnant, order a size up so I at least fit the top bust area. 

thanks for your help,

Nancy

Replies

  1. Josefly | | #1

    Nancy, this seems like a huge - and dicey - alteration to me.  Have you thought about making a similarly-styled muslin and altering it in the manner you anticipate, before you start altering the dress itself?  This would give you an idea about where you want to insert the gores, and how much fullness you can expect to get.  A muslin needn't be full-length, have sleeves, or finished neckline, etc. - just have the same general neckline and princess seams. 

    I'm having a little trouble imagining how you would get enough fullness in the short space between bust and belly, but it depends on whether the dress is fitted under the bust, whether there's an empire waistline, how much fullness will be needed, and exactly where it will be - whether you carry the baby "high" or "low", etc.  

    Also, how will you match the fabric in the dress exactly?  If there's the least difference in sheen or texture, it will certainly be emphasized when you combine the two fabrics.  Perhaps you can get extra fabric from David's?  The folks at David's might also be able to advise you about possible alteration alternatives. 

    I hope you get some more input from others who've had this same issue to deal with.  Good luck with the project, and let us know how it goes.

    Joan 

    1. nancylee02 | | #3

      I did get 2 yards of fabric the same die lot as the dress. The dress is like the attached picture- except that it is not a halter but has a scoop neckline and wide straps. It does not have an empire waist, but since I'm the matron of honor I have a sash to wear which will know go at the empire waist level. 

      With the way I carry my babies, and the style of the dress I have about 3" from bottom of my bra to where I start needing a lot of room for the belly. And the dress is a size larger then I normally wear. 

      I might end up making a muslin- or find a print that I like and try to make a sample dress. I was just trying to avoid that extra step, that will mean 4 more days of not being able to nap when the kids sleep... this third pregnancy is becoming the hardest. :)

      1. Josefly | | #4

        pleated gores?

        Oh, great, so glad you got the fabric.  What a pretty dress it is.  I like alotofstitches'  suggestion about adding an inverted pleat.  Since you ordered a size up, maybe you can add the gores into the seams in such a way that it forms that inverted pleat, even though there's no waistline or empire-waist seam.  That would allow for a little more fullness in the 3 inch space you have from under-bust to belly.  I'm assuming you  would want the point of the gore to start just at the bottom of the bust, is that right?

        Even though there's no waistline seam, the dress apparently does taper in quite a bit at the waist.  Are there side seams as well as princess seams, and if so, is there any room in the seam allowances for you to let the dress out at the natural waistline there on the sides?  You mentioned adding gores to the back, also, but that might make too much of the tent-look you wanted to avoid.

        I can see why you wouldn't want to take the time to make a muslin.  But it might save you lots of frustration later.  I would want to know how the dress was going to look with the new lines, so a muslin would be a requirement for me, I'm afraid.  For example, one problem might be that the center panel (being pushed outward by your baby-belly) will pull the seams of your gores in toward the center, making lines that don't fall straight as they should.  As far as technique of adding the gore, and the design of the gore, goes, you could experiment with scrap fabric, sewing two pieces together in a partial seam, leaving the seam open below a certain point, and inserting a pleated  or non-pleated gore.   Anyone who can help you?

        Joan 

    2. alotofstitches | | #6

      tummy fullness

      Nancy, I believe the best solution would be to complete separate the side seams all the way to the underarm.  Add a 6-8 in. plus seam allowance strip to side seam, folding it down to an inverted pleat on each side of the dress.  I suggest the side seams because the dress is fitted there, it's where you need extra room, and pleats will hang better there than across the sides of the belly.  You may not need that large a pleat on each side, if not, you can always cut it down.  You may even be able to sew down the center of the pleat until you reach the point of needed fullness.  Good luck with this!

      1. nancylee02 | | #7

        Thank you everyone for the ideas- And Alotofstitches, that idea of adding to the side seam is intresting, I'm going to have to marinate on that one for a while.

        Last night when I was up for a potty run I thought of a way to make a test dress without actually sewing one from the start: The Goodwill. I I'm going to make a trip to the good will looking for a dress with the same seaming and in my size and try out the gores, the inverted pleats and now the side seam and see what will work the best.

        I spent an hour yesterday transforming my dressform into a pregnant one. Good thing I saved the "tummy" and boobs from the last pregnancy and only had to adjust it for the aprox. size I will be at 26 weeks. Thank God for duct tape!

        I'll post any progress and final results of this project.

        thanks again,

        nancy

  2. alotofstitches | | #2

    adding fullness for belly

    Is there a seam between the skirt and the bodice (under the cummerbun)?  If so, think about adding an inverted pleat rather than a gore since the pleat will spread to give immediate fullness.  Is the dress long enough to allow extra length in front to offset the length required to go over your belly?  Did you get the extra fabric from David's Bridal so that it matches?

    1. KharminJ | | #8

      Why not a new waist seam?

      I think Nancy said there is no waist seam, but she's adding the cumberbund... 

      But, just thinking out loud here ~ Why not add a seam under the bust? It will be covered y the cumberbund, and may offer more options for adding fullness around the belly, plus extra length to go over the little-one-to-be, too.

      Bright Blessings ~

      Kharmin

  3. regatta | | #5

    I'll try again - my answer just disappeared.

    Could you perhaps add godets into the seams and even at the centre, and adjust the seams to remove the waist.

    Okay this is the 3rd attempt to write an answer. Better keep it short  - previous two just disappeared while I was typing. 

    Could you add godets into the seam from under the  bust, and remove the waist shaping.  Smaller godets at the back if you need more fullness there.

    Hope it all works out   - Regards  Marika

    t

  4. KharminJ | | #9

    Makes sense to *me*...

    Hi, Chris ~

    FWIW, your directions make perfect sense to me - not that it's my problem, right now, but I'm sure some analogous situation will come up, sooner or later! (grin)

    ~ That's what I've always loved about this place - my pack-rat-brain is always picking up tidbits of information that help make sense of some-other problem, down the road...

    Bright Blessings!  Kharmin

  5. nancylee02 | | #10

    I just "finished" the bridesmaid dress alteration!!!!

    Hello everyone-

    Thanks for all the help and suggestion. Here is what I did:

    I purchased a dress from Goodwill that had the same lines to use as a muslin- but it ended up being to big and fitting my pregnant dress form great. So I just jumped in the deep end and through the dress on the form, looked at where the fabric was being pulled and started out by opening up the two side seams from the bottom to about 3" below the arm hole. (I also adjusted the shoulder straps up 1/2" to make up for my normally short torso) I then placed some trace paper underneath the dress and traced what shape the dress was naturally falling. I then took that pattern (compared it to the other side- it was just about the same) and trued it to make a shaped that looks like a bullet. 

    I did do an inverted pleat at the top, though it is hidden by the cumberbund. I hand sewn it in, and tried it on to check the fit- had to add a little padding but it fit great! I made the same alterations to the lining and have attached a hook and eye to the dress and cumberbund. This will help the cumberbund hang a little more evenly and will keep me from looking like a cinched garbage bag. :) 

    A note on the pictures. Sorry they are from my i-phone in low lighting quickly taken to get them posted. The dress fits a little better on me then the dress form- since I am not shaped like an ideal 1960's women. I am also waiting to do the hem until the week of the wedding, so that it will allow for the final size of my tummy, that and mom can help to mark it. 

    Thanks again for everyone's comments- now on to my daughter's flowergirl dress....uuuggg I think I need a nap first. :) Nancy

    1. alotofstitches | | #11

      Good Job!

      Nancylee, I know you're relieved to have that behind you!  It looks like you did a good job on the alterations too!

      Liz

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