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sewing with velveteen

JeanE's picture

I am making a velvet coat for my 23 month old granddaughter.  I need to know how the best way to keep the knap from raveling.  I have a surger, but I do not know if that is the best way.  This outfit is special. 


Jeane


 

starzoe's picture

(post #28360, reply #1 of 22)

The serger should do the job to stop the ravelling of the cut edges. With velveteen you do have a lot of fluff when working with it. I suppose you do know that the patterns have to be cut using the "nap" instructions....one directional. Sorry if you know this, but it is critical and not everyone does understand about nap and no nap.

JeanE's picture

(post #28360, reply #2 of 22)

Thank you for the infomation on surging the veleteen.  Yes I did know about cutting in one direction with a napped fabric.  If there are any other information "goodies" please by all means pass them on.


JeanE


 

Gloriasews's picture

(post #28360, reply #14 of 22)

You may also want to use a walking or roller foot, as velvet or velveteen likes to "creep" when you're sewing it.  Try a sample & see if you need to do this with these garments.  It should be a beautiful outfit when you're done - please try to post pics if possible.


Gloria

starzoe's picture

(post #28360, reply #15 of 22)

I am not the person who is sewing with velveteen, please check the original posting for the right name.

Gloriasews's picture

(post #28360, reply #17 of 22)

Sorry about that, Starzoe - I'll watch that in the future.  In the meantime, she'll read my post anyway, no doubt. 


Gloria

starzoe's picture

(post #28360, reply #18 of 22)

Oh, that happens now and then, have done it myself.

MaryinColorado's picture

(post #28360, reply #3 of 22)

I agree with Starzoe!  Be sure to prewash, maybe twice.  I'd use the serger, but if you prefer the sewing machine, you could try Seams Great to cover the seam edges.  Mary

solosmocker's picture

(post #28360, reply #4 of 22)

When sewing on velvet or velveteen I like to do a hand picked zipper instead of a machine installed zipper.

solo

JeanE's picture

(post #28360, reply #5 of 22)

I appreciate the advice on the zipper.  I had not thought of that but there will be no zipper in this coat.  It will have buttons.  I am thinking of bound button holes which scares the you know what out of me.  But I reqlly think they will look better.  Any more suggestions from anyone.


JeanE


 

Meg's picture

(post #28360, reply #6 of 22)

Because of the nap of the fabric, be sure to pin-baste the seams. Have fun!

GailAnn's picture

(post #28360, reply #7 of 22)

Bound buttonholes have an undeserved reputation for being much more difficult than they actually are.  The beautiful result is more than worth the minimal extra effort.


Just get some good directions (Vogue Sewing Book, maybe) and make a practice one or two on a scrap velveteen.  You'll be pleasantly surprized!  Gail

Teaf5's picture

(post #28360, reply #8 of 22)

Bound buttonholes might be bulky unless you work them in a coordinating fabric like satin or silk. 


Another option is to make machine buttonholes, and then go over them with handstitching in a beautiful rayon embroidery thread.  The machine stitching creates a stable, uniform base, and the handstitching over top is quick and easy but lends a very lovely hand-tailored look to both the outside and inside.


Make sure you open the buttonholes using a chisel rather than scissors, and if the interfacing shows through the openings, dot it with a permanent marker in the same color as the velvet before doing the handstitching.

JeanE's picture

(post #28360, reply #9 of 22)

I want to thank all of you for your help.  I like the idea of using satin for the bound buttonholes.  The coat is red velveteen and the lining is black with a lovely black dress underneath.  When my daughter told me what she wanted I thought black on a 2 year old.  But with coloring it is looking good.  It will have a narrow black fur trim on the color, cuffs and brim of the hat.


Thank you again.


JeanE

JeanE's picture

(post #28360, reply #10 of 22)

Ps.  I have a hint that some of you might like to try.  On regular fabric I use flat marbles like you use in vases of flowers to hold the fabric in place while I cut out a pattern.  It works wonderfully.


JeanE


 

Susanc22's picture

(post #28360, reply #20 of 22)

Hey!  That's a great idea and I have them here at the house already!  I already pin as little as I can so it will go more quickly, and always think "I ought to get some large washers from the hardwares store next time I'm there..."  Thanks for the idea!


Susan

amm's picture

(post #28360, reply #21 of 22)

Working with velveteen isn't as hard as you might think, as long as you are careful to take the extra steps that are required by the high pile.  Just be very careful when pressing the finished garment.  If your iron is too hot, you could "burn" a permanent iron-shaped image on your fabic!  To be sure, test the temperature of your iron on a scrap first to be sure no permanent changes are made as you press.

MaryinColorado's picture

(post #28360, reply #11 of 22)

This sounds adorable!  Mary

From my Stash....'s picture

(post #28360, reply #12 of 22)

Hi Jean.  One thing you might want to try with velveteen is using the narrow tape that quilter's use ( going from memory, I think it's called Wonder tape, but I can't be sure) within the seam allowance.  This is a 2-sided sticky tape that you apply to the right side of one piece, then remove the paper backing,  place the right side of the other piece as you would normally, and then when it's in place to sew, just press down on the tape .  When sewing the seam, make sure you are not stitching through the tape as it would mess up your needle.  The purpose of doing this is to prevent the nap of your fabric from moving your two layers of fabric as you are sewing.


Hope that helps,


 

MaryinColorado's picture

(post #28360, reply #13 of 22)

I had trouble with the glue on that double sided wonder tape.  It seeped through the fabric at the edges and left dirty looking marks.  This was before I even got around to sewing it, it was not washed or dry cleaned or anything.  Just hanging up so the fabric could relax for hemming.  It was shell pink and even showed all the way through the fabric of my long elegant "Mother of the Groom gown".  So much for my time saving efforts because it had a bit of a train.  I was trying to avoid putting too many pins in the delicate fabric. Whew!  Was I scared!


It may be great for the heavier velvet, but I am very leery of adhesives now. 


I removed it with great difficulty,  hand washing the area with Dawn dish soap and having to scrub with a wash cloth.   I was so afraid it would water spot on top of everything else. 


I don't recall ever spending so much time and effort on one hem in my life!  Thank the Lord, all worked out in time for my son's wedding!  Mary


 

fabricmaven's picture

(post #28360, reply #16 of 22)

I have sewn quite a bit with cotton velveteen. I always prewash the yardage and dry it in a hot dryer. That has always taken care of any shrinkage problem. I never use an iron- on interfacing because it never bonds well. I always use a different fabric like satin back crepe or silk or any fabric I like (also pre-washed) that would be thinner and not have a nap like the velvet, too much bulk otherwise. Definitely serge the cut edges. Pinking shears (or at least mine) are hard to use on a napped fabric and I find that it will still ravel. If your garment wont be lined you should probably invest the time by covering the raw seam edges with seam binding even if you've serged them. To save my sanity I discovered that by stapling my seams together in the seam allowance I was able to stop my seams from shifting even while using the even feed foot on my Pfaff. Of course you then have to carefully remove the staples with  the aid of a small screwdriver to get it started and then pull them out with a staple remover. Sounds ridiculous but it works for me. Also, even with the use of staples, don't try to sew a curved seam without stopping every inch or so to readjust to your seam allowance and not pivot on the machine needle as you can still go off the seam allowance because of the nap shifting. Hope this helps. 

cree9's picture

(post #28360, reply #19 of 22)

I have also sewn velveteen often with not enough to follow pattern layout for napped fabric - I discovered that if I laid the pieces out on the cross grain (90 degrees) from selvedge of fabric I didn't need to worry about nap layout and it saved me from total loss - this was some years ago now but I wouldn't hesitate to do this again if I was short of fabric.

JeanE's picture

(post #28360, reply #22 of 22)

to all of you who have helped me with my granddaughter's coat.  I have finished everything except the buttonholes.  It turned out really good.  When I put the buttonholes in I will take a picture of it on her and post it.  But it will have to be after Thanksgiving.  I have a lot of cooking to do now.  Thanks again.


JeanE