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Loden

tzipi | Posted in Fabric and Trim on

The pattern I have calls for loden. I’m not sure what that is. I looked it up in Webster’s dictionary but I’m still not sure. Anyone can help?

Thanks ,
tzipi

Replies

  1. starzoe | | #1

    Loden is "a thick, soft, waterproof, windproof wool used in outerwear with a characteristic green colour". (from google)

    1. Betakin | | #2

      How smart you are..and here I was going to say loden was a shade of green.  :(

  2. katina | | #3

    Starzoe is correct. Loden cloth is boiled wool - the beautiful trachten jackets of Austria were traditionally made in the green colour, but nowadays the cloth is available in numerous colours. The yardage is knitted, then fulled. It's very easy to sew and can be purchased with the matching braid to bind the edges. These jackets are not cheap, typically selling for more than 600 euro. They're very warm and are worn quite tightly fitted.

    Katina

    1. tzipi | | #4

      Dear Everyone,

       

      Google agrees with websters.

       

      i think I once owned a jacket like that from Austria when I was a kid. I think I'll just make this jacket from felted wool. Unless somwone can suggest where to buy Loden.

      Thanks

       

      tzipi

      1. GailAnn | | #5

        Well, actually-------------Fashion Fabrics Club is having a sale on 60" wide knitted wools right now, this would be the thing to buy twice the yardage of and "full" it for "boiled wool".  Gail

        1. tzipi | | #6

          What does it mean to "Full" it? Thanks Tzipi

          1. GailAnn | | #7

            Wash it, dry it, felt it, shrink it..................then the wool "fulls".

            Now, ladies, can you give me some advice and/or courage?

            I have three (3 - count 'em) "boiled wool" jackets (blue, black, kinda cranberry).  I bought them, last Spring, on "too good a sale to resist"! 

            They are all, at least 1, possibly 2 sizes too big! 

            All Summer I have been debating with myself...........Shall I take them in or shall I just put them in the washer and dryer and see what happens? 

            We had a freeze last night, the time has come to decide!

            I guess the third choice is just to wear them over a sweatshirt, sleeves rolled up ala Michelin Man!  Gail

          2. Tatsy | | #8

            Washing and drying dry-clean only garments is something I've tried with varying results. If you do try it, start with the one you like least and see what happens. Possibilities include garment elements shrinking at different rates, raveling, losing stiffness in stabilized places, puckering, and no telling what else. Maybe you could get the same effect with less risk by using a wet press cloth and your iron.

            Sometimes you can take in garments by adding garment details without actually having to take apart and alter. Is there a center back seam, or could you add one? Can you run a line of hand stitches around the armscye to ease in extra fabric and then shrink? I'm pretty adventurous about most sewing experiments but throwing wool jackets in the washer and dryer scares me. (I also had bad experiences with RTW rayon acetate!) Good luck.

             

          3. katina | | #9

            I agree with Tatsy - not a good idea to risk further fulling. These jackets are probably not lined, right? It's not difficult to make some minor adjustments to them.

            Katina

          4. BernaWeaves | | #10

            As a weaver, please allow me to say that fulling and felting are not the same thing.

            Fulling is when you wash wool cloth (already woven or knitted) so that it shrinks (about 50%) and the stitches or threads become obscured into a solid looking cloth.

            Felting is when you take loose fiber (locks of wool) and overlap them, and rub them with hot and cold water and soap to shrink them into a solid fabric.

            Loden cloth can be made from woven or knitted wool, but I recommend buying it already fulled.  If you try to do it yourself the center of the cloth will shrink more than the edges, and you'll end up with rippled selvedges and ends. 

            Loden cloth is usually a dull, slightly heathery color (usually loden green).  You could substitute a thick wool tweed fabric.

            Berna

            Edited 10/30/2007 1:47 pm ET by BernaWeaves

            Edited 10/30/2007 1:48 pm ET by BernaWeaves

          5. katina | | #11

            Thank you, Berna - I appreciate your ensuring that the distinction between fulling and felting is made, and share your concern that the two processes aren't confused. Other than felt balls which I make from roving, I've not made any felt. I do however full both woven and knitted woollen fabric. I believe I've used only the term "fulling" in this discussion. I live in Austria and Loden is now often a generic term for the fulled woollen fabric (machine knitted in a variety of colours) from which various lovely jackets and vests are made.

            Katina

             

             

          6. stitchagain | | #12

            So interesting! Thank you for commitment to accuracy!

          7. Teaf5 | | #13

            What are the laundering instructions on the jackets?  If they say "dryclean only," you risk a lot more than if they say "hand wash cold,"  but many dryclean-only garments can be safely washed anyway.

            For a somewhat safe experiment, you might be able to find a small selvedge of fabric from the inside somewhere near the pocket or placket or facing that you can snip out, trace on a piece of paper, and then wash & dry on hot before comparing it to the original tracing.

            Jackets are generally warmer if they have a bit of ease, and I am always wearing at least two or three layers beneath mine, so make sure you try them on with your normal combination before deciding on size.

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