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Chanel Jacket Construction information

nykate's picture

I'm looking for an article on the construction of Chanel jackets, specifically Issue #121, pages 34-121. Apparently the issue is not available to purchase directly from Taunton Press, so if anyone has this article or issue, and would be willing to either scan it and send it, or sell it to me I would really be grateful. I'm in the process of reworking an existing pattern to copy a recent style of Chanel, and any help in the construction information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Kate

KBTsewer's picture

(post #27646, reply #1 of 14)

In Claire Shaeffers book 'Couture Sewing Techniques" pages 182-182 explain how to make a Chanel jacket by quilting the top fabric and lining together.There are line diagrams to help.

nykate's picture

(post #27646, reply #2 of 14)

Thanks for this. I was actually looking for more tips on fitting, since I'm not going to do the quilted aspect. Thanks again!

woodruff's picture

(post #27646, reply #5 of 14)

"... I was actually looking for more tips on fitting, since I'm not going to do the quilted aspect. "

I have the Threads issue you are interested in. The quilting of the lining to the fashion fabric is the hallmark, the absolutely distinguishing feature, of the classic Chanel jacket. The article you mention is devoted in detail to this type of construction. There are no tips on fitting other than than making a muslin to fit and then using the muslin as your pattern. A small portion of the article discusses trim and the selection of buttons and chain weights for the hems.


Edited 5/19/2009 1:35 am by woodruff

GailAnn's picture

(post #27646, reply #6 of 14)

A year ago, maybe longer, there was a series of stories on The Sewing Diva's blog about making a Channel Suit.  Gail

GinghamGrrl's picture

(post #27646, reply #8 of 14)

Do you have a link to this page? I adore Chanel. I would love to study the construction of one of her suits.

cafms's picture

(post #27646, reply #9 of 14)

This is a link to the Sewing Divas site and the Chanel jacket.  http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2006/11/18/stalking-the-ghost-of-coco-chanel-part-ii-2/  I think it is called part two because it is about finishing a UFO.  Anyway I can't find a part one.   There is a lot of good information about a lot of things on their website. 

GinghamGrrl's picture

(post #27646, reply #10 of 14)

Thanks for the link. I found the article to be very informative and I printed it out for future reference. I also liked the site, and I bookmarked it.

KharminJ's picture

(post #27646, reply #12 of 14)

Yay! Thank you for looking 'til you found that, Rehka! Now, to read it...

Kharmin

Palady's picture

(post #27646, reply #13 of 14)

A most caring thank you to cafms & rekha for posting the URL's to the Chanel info on Sewing Divas.  I personally know the phyllisc and she is a delight in my life.  Her sewing gene came to the fore circa 1992 and she is a fourth generation sewist.


Her sewing blog is -


http://coudremode.com


nepa

nykate's picture

(post #27646, reply #7 of 14)

Thanks. So I guess I'm doing the right thing making this up in muslin. I have been using the Clare Shaeffer patterns, but the one for the "classic" Chanel is for an above-hip jacket, so I had to combine it with another Vogue pattern to get the proportions and length where I wanted it. I guess that's the essence of couture work, right? Making something completely to one's specifications. Eventually I'll probably do the quilted thing, too. And picking trim is a real pain. For the first "Chanel" jacket I made last fall, I ended up buying a separate fabric and shredding it to then create custom made trim. Took forever, but it turned out well.

Choosing buttons can be painful as well. Often those I find in stores are the wrong size, or either too plain or too ornate....

Thanks for your help.
Kate

Ocrafty1's picture

(post #27646, reply #3 of 14)

Try sending an email to Threads....They copied and sent me the pages of an out of print issue that I needed.  If not, send me a PM and I'll get you the info.


Deb

nykate's picture

(post #27646, reply #4 of 14)

Thanks for the suggestion. I actually called their 800 number, but the issue is out of print, and they couldn't help me. You would think that being able to make a knock off Chanel jacket would be something a lot of people would be interested in, but I guess not. But thanks anyway. Any other suggestions gratefully accepted.
Kate

user-1109841's picture

Chanel Jacket construction (post #27646, reply #14 of 14)

Unfortunately, the issue with Susan Khalje's article on the Chanel jacket construction is out of stock. I am not surprised since it was several years ago. But I just subscribed today!

Anyway, does anyone know if Threads ever sells specific articles from old issues. Since the back issue is out of stock, perhaps they could just offer the article only at a discount price.

Who would I ask at the magazine for that option?