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  • In a reply to 936 Viking Serger Problem
    spicegirl1's picture
    9 hours 1 min ago

    Turn it off, wait a few minutes and turn it back on.  If the problem continues, you will need to take it in for service.

  • In a reply to Western Pleasure Rail Shirts
    Seba1964's picture
    1 day 6 hours ago

    Hello Brynn714, I am very late in joining this group, and just saw your message.  I would appreciate help in the sewing medium you used.  If you have any products left that you would like to sell, I sure would like to see a list of them.  I  am very interesting in the patterns you used.

    I don't know if this is an appropriate message on this Board.  I am new to chat groups, other than FaceBook...

  • In a reply to Unsubscribe
    Evamarie's picture
    5 days 12 hours ago

    Hi Janis48,

    When you say "unsubscribe my profile", are you referring to deleting your forum profile or unsbuscribing from Threads eletters?

  • In a reply to Pod casts live feeds
    Evamarie's picture
    5 days 12 hours ago

    Hello Homesew,

    We do not have any podcasts scheduled at the present time. If, and when, that changes we will certianly alert  readers via our e-letters, social media sites, and on ThreadsMagazine.com.

  • In a reply to Lining up a curved pattern
    e_black's picture
    1 week 9 hours ago

    Thanks for replying! I'm still trying to get it to line up flat one pattern on top of another without any effects yet. I'm wondering if I need to add more than the 1/4" seam width, or if I need to make slices at the seam to have it curve properly. I don't understand why sewing the thinner strip to the wider strip causes so much distortion.

  • In a reply to Lining up a curved pattern
    spicegirl1's picture
    1 week 9 hours ago

    You may not be adding enough to account for the puffy effect.

  • In a reply to Western Show Jackets
    BlueSkyWoman's picture
    1 week 3 days ago

    Hi Kelly,

    I googled "western show jackets" and there are many ideas to gleen from the photos online. Start drawing some ideas on a sketch pad and then practice on a basic jacket. I use polyester fabric that does not ravel to cut out the appliques, stitch the appliques down and either sew or glue the beading or rhinestones. I also use soutach braid to outline my design. Hope this helps. Would love to see the outcome of your jackets.

    Mary

  • In a reply to Zipper along contoured seam?
    BlueSkyWoman's picture
    1 week 3 days ago

    I like to use invisible zippers. There are no special steps it will look fine.

     

    Mary

  • In a reply to Fitting jacket neckline
    BlueSkyWoman's picture
    1 week 3 days ago

    Hi Holly,

    When altering a jacket with a collar that is sticking out in the back of the neck I take fabric out of the upper center back of the jacket and put a seam in the center back of the collar. If you have enough fabric left over you could cut a new smaller collar to fit.

    Mary

  • In a reply to Fitting a client
    BlueSkyWoman's picture
    1 week 3 days ago

    Hi Clare,

    This is not unusally at all. The amount of fabric taken out in the dart accommodates a larger cup size. It helps to curve the fabric around the breast.

    Mary

  • In a reply to Little Badgers attern correctsion?
    steflangley's picture
    1 week 3 days ago

    Hi - this is way after your original post, but thought i'd send it anyway so if you still have the book you can put this inside for future reference!  See below for all the errors I found....many seem quite substatial!

    Little Badger Knitwear
    Due to printing errors and conversion from inches to cm please note amendments 10/06/01

    Abbreviations

    SSK: slip 1 stitch, slip another stitch, put on left hand needle, k2together through back of stitch. This looks like K2tog in reverse and avoids stretching the stitch. However slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over would also work (but wouldn’t look as neat).
    Sl 2tog.k1,p2sso;slip 2together(as if you were going to k2tog) then knit the next st and pass both the slipped sts over the knitted one. This has the same effect as k3tog but the stitch in the middle lies on top of the other 2

    P58, Coat Dress, Leggings & booties
    Tension should read 25sts 40 rows = 10cm.
    Back; Cast on 106(121)sts
    Shape Waist; next row; (p2tog)7times,(p1,p2tog) 26(31)times then p2 tog 7 times.
    Shape Shoulders last sentence should read. cast off remaining 20(24) centre back.
    Left Front; Shape armholes
    2nd row should read Cont in st st keeping Moss st border but dec 1 st at armhole edge on next row and every following row until 25(32)sts.
    Right Front; Shape armholes; Cont in st st keeping moss st border but decrease 1 st at armhole edge on next row & every following row until 25(32)sts.
    Cont in st st until right front measures 34(38.5)cms from cast on edge if using denim cotton or 31(31.5)cms if using plain cotton and making 2 further buttonholes at intervals of 10(12)rows
    Sleeves; 4th row of pattern should read ending with a purl row. Increase should read Inc 1 st each end of every following 6th row.
    Collar; cast on 76(90)sts

    P66, Museum Sweater
    Yarn quantities should read 5(7,8)grm balls

    P64,Ballet cardi; Back 2nd row should read work 12 rows in K1 P1 rib.

    P65, Square Neck cardigan
    Yarn quantities should read 4(5)grms

    P61 Cot Blanket
    Yarn quantities should read 5 x 50grm balls Ecru 2 x 50grm Red

    P68 Heart Sweater
    Front Last line before shape armholes should read; cont as set until 46(44)th row of chart has been worked

    P69 Dragon hat (see also abbreviations above)
    When knitting dragon hat try knitting tail first to get an idea of how fins work
    R21; k8,slip 2tog, k1, p2sso,(k12,ssk) twice, k11, inc in next st,k4, inc in next st, (k12,k2tog)twice,k12, k3tog,k8.
    R23; k6, sl 2tog,k1,p2sso(k11,ssk)twice, k10, inc in next st, k8, inc in next st (k11,k2tog) twice, k11, k3tog, k6.
    R26;p3,p2tog tbl,p to last 5sts,p2tog,p3
    R27;k2,sl 2tog,k1,p2sso,(k9,ssk)twice,k16, fold work back with RS facing, using a third needle, k1stitch alone from front needle, then alternating k & p, cast off all recently increased sts (7 more) by taking 1st from each needle together, slip the remaining sts from 3rd needle back onto original rh needle, pull yarn up tight to avoid a hole and continue row,(k9,k2tog) twice,k9 sl2tog,k1,p2sso,k2.
    R29;sl 2tog,k1,p2sso,(k8,ssk)twice,k7,(inc in next st)twice(k8,k2tog)twice,,k8,sl 2tog,k1,p2sso.
    R31;Cast on 10sts,k10,ssk,(k7,ssk)twice,k6,inc in next st,k2,inc in next st,(k7,k2tog)twice,k7,k2tog,k10.
    R32;p9,p2tog tbl,p to last 11sts, p2tog,p9
    R33;k8,sl 2tog,k1,p2sso,(k6,ssk)twice,k5,inc in next st,k4,inc in next st,(k6,k2tog)twice,k6,sl 2tog, k1,psso,k8
    R34; p7,p2tog tbl,p19,inc in next st,p6,inc in next st, p to last 9sts,p2tog,p7.
    R35; k6,sl 2tog,k1,p2sso,(k5,ssk)twice,k4,inc in next st,k8,inc in next st,(k5,k2tog)twice,k5,sl 2tog, k1,psso,k6
    R36; p5,p2tog tbl,p16,inc in next st,p10,inc in next st, p to last 7sts,p2tog,p5
    R37; k4,sl 2tog,k1,p2sso,(k4,ssk)twice,k3,inc in next st,k12,inc in next st,(k4,k2tog)twice,k4,sl 2tog, k1,psso,k4
    R38; p3,p2tog tbl,p13,inc in next st,p14,inc in next st, p 14,p2tog,p3
    R39; ;k2,sl 2tog,k1,p2sso,(k3,ssk)twice,k2,inc in next st,k16,inc in next st,(k3,k2tog)twice,k3,sl 2tog, k1,psso,k2
    R41;sl 2tog,k1,p2sso,(k2,ssk)twice,k11,fold work back with RS facing, using 3rd needle k the first st alone from the front needle, then cast off as before, taking 1 st from each needle together, until all inc sts have been cast off. Slip remaining st from 3rd needle back onto original rh needle and finish row. (k2,k2tog)twice,k2,sl2tog,k1,p2sso.
    Transfer all sts onto other needle, cut off yarn leaving a long end for sewing up, thread yarn twice through remaining sts(19) and draw up into a tight circle, sew along back fins with mattress st.

    P89; Star Jacket 25(31)sts for back neck should be cast off not left on needle holder

    P90; Scarf
    Cont as set until scarf measures 28cm should be 71cm (28")

    P91 Hats
    2nd row of heart & star graph should read
    k32(38,34) with MC, k across 2nd row of chart A or B k32(38,44) with MC

    P81Soccer Sweater
    Shape armholes; Last line should read. Continue in st st until work measures 32(37,46)cm
    Shape Shoulders; Cast off 16(20,22)sts at each end of next row to shape shoulders. Place remaining 31(31,33)sts across center on needle holder. Back should measure 32(37,46)cm
    Front
    Shape Armholes Last line should read; 24(28,35)cm from cast on edge
    Shape Neck; Next row; Cont in st st work 26(30,32)sts. 4th Row of pattern should then read cont in st st until work measures 32(37,46)cm from cast on edge Cast off remaining 16(20,23)sts for shoulder. With right side facing, place center 11(11,13)sts on st holder. Rejoin yarn to remaining 26,(30,32)sts cont in st st shaping neck as on opposite side.
    Neck; 3rd row of pattern should read pick up all 31(31,33)sts from back.

    "Very sorry for any inconvenience this causes!
    "Ros Badger & Elaine Scott" (the authors)

  • In a reply to dressform
    AeliciaJ56847's picture
    1 week 4 days ago

    I am glad to see that I am not the only one out there that speaks up to help others. I found out the dress form fitting system is on sale on amazon. Here is the link. There is also this sewing site that is a portal for all the best amazon's deals. It looks like they put together all the best of sewing supplies in one place. Here is the link sewingshopusa.com. Once you are on the page, you can click on anything and it will connect you right to the amon offer. Great place to get your sewing supplies.

  • In a reply to dress forms
    AeliciaJ56847's picture
    1 week 4 days ago

     

    I've done that, I really tried to make my own dress form. I ended up throwing everything in the trash and bought a new dress form with a fitting system that lets me adjust the size and shape of it at will. I would recommend to get an already made dress form.

  • In a reply to dressform
    elizabethw001's picture
    1 week 5 days ago

    Love it! Before I bought this dress form from fabulous fit I thought that I wasn't good enough because everything I made did not fit me, so I thought it was me being incapable of making something good. To my surprise I was wrong. The problem was that I always used a standard dress form that did not match my body. So, I bought a fabulous fit dress form. Once I padded up my new dress form with the fitting system I realized that all I had to do to make my patterns work was to mimic my own body. How simple is that? Of course all these dresses, jackets, and pants I made did not work form me, they were made on a standard dress form that simply did not have my body shape. It’s incredible that no other company tells you that, and unless you are an experienced sewer you don’t really think about it I guess, until after your purchase. Fortunately I‘ve read some dress form reviews about Fabulous Fit dress forms and that saved me a lot of trouble and now I believe in myself again as being a good sewer. Thank you Fabulous Fit for this great product.

  • In a reply to Busy Seamstress
    sewjin's picture
    1 week 5 days ago

    Hi,

    I would be willing to help with your jeans alteration. I do not know where you live to be close enough to help you.

    sewjin